Where to Stay, Eat, Explore in Campbell River, Vancouver Island

I had expected foggy mornings, flannel, and hearty Canadian fare in Campbell River, a small city on the east coast of British Columbia’s Vancouver Island.

But I was surprised to discover a chic new resort, a restaurant that serves plant-based food, and a café with croissants as good as any I’ve eaten in Paris.

Campbell River has been dubbed salmon capital of the world. It also has upscale eateries, a world-class golf course, and adventures like whale watching and snorkeling with the salmon.

Read on for my recommendations on where to stay, eat, and explore in Campbell River.

Where to Stay in Campbell River – Naturally Pacific Resort

The vibe felt both welcoming and stylish when I walked into the lobby of Naturally Pacific Resort in BC’s Campbell River, named for both the town and the river.

Sleek lines, earthy tones, and contemporary art made it feel cosmopolitan. Yet, the rainforest was just out the door.

Owner and general manager Amanda Mailman poured her immense taste and talent into every aspect of the property.

When I chatted with Mailman during a recent stay, she seemed as comfortable in Louis Vuitton as she would a pair of fishing waders. And she was as approachable and gracious as the resort itself.

The businesswoman grew up in Campbell River and has a vision to share the area’s incredible natural splendor.  She’s also committed to introducing guests to a resort that offers not only access to outdoor adventures, but an elegant escape and fine cuisine.

“My home has amazing things to offer. I look out my front door and see whales,” Mailman said. “I want to bring the world here to experience the wonders I see every day.”

Carve Kitchen + Meatery at Naturally Pacific Resort

Chef Ryan Watson leads the team at Carve Kitchen + Meatery, the resort’s signature restaurant, known for serving outstanding steak. They are also growing a 10,000-square-foot garden onsite, to provide vegetables and herbs for menu items.

The evening I dined at Carve, the pistachio-crusted salmon was prepared at just the right temperature and flakiness.

One of my favorite things at the resort was Velocity Lounge & Driving Range, where guests gather in a pod for a beer, appetizers, and to hit golf balls. The place was hopping the evening I was there. Velocity has a sports bar vibe but is also a good fit for families.

One person described Velocity as “the cool version of a bowling alley.”

Where to Explore in Campbell River  – Snorkeling with the Salmon

I stood on the banks of the Campbell River squeezed into a wetsuit, fumbling with my snorkel and goggles, and wondered, “What have I gotten myself into?”

An angler in the river glanced curiously out the corner of his eye as my fellow snorkelers and I entered the frigid river.

I felt awkward, unsure, and nervous. But, once I sank into the river and started to float downstream with the current, there was little choice but to keep moving.

I reminded myself of what Stephen Neff, Oceanfix.ca Dive Shop owner, instructed earlier: “Just do the Superman thing. It can get shallow in places, so keep your knees up so you don’t hit the rocks.”

Neff may have sensed our apprehension as we listened to instructions after we were fitted with wetsuits and snorkel gear.

“There are five of you. At least four of you should come back,” Neff said, grinning. Then, he asked, “I take it you can all swim?”

In the water, the current was gentle, but I could hear gurgling ahead.  To my nervous Nellie brain, it sounded like a waterfall. I raised my eyes above the water and was relieved to see my pals’ snorkels, one to my left and another ahead of me.

Underwater, plants swayed, and salmon darted here and there, swimming against the current upstream to spawn.

The fish looked enormous, about half my height, but my goggles may have magnified their size. The salmon were muted brown with flecks of iridescence.

Then came the ripples.

‘Go With the Flow’

I bobbed as the river’s current carried me over rocks and I clenched my snorkel so hard I thought I might bite right through. I recalled what Neff had said earlier: “Just go with the flow.”

Thankfully, it was only a few heart-pounding moments until I reached smoother water.

After a mere 35 minutes in the river, we reached the exit area, marked by a brown lattice fence. There, the water was calm, and I lumbered onto the riverbank. The wetsuit had kept me toasty, but my hands were so cold I needed help to unstrap my fins.

The best part of the adventure was later when we compared notes over beer.

One snorkeler thought it would be like a lazy river.

“Me too!” I confessed. “Like the lazy river at the JW Marriott in Phoenix.”

Another said she was just getting a feel for the river when we reached the exit.

We all came out unscathed unless you count one friend who said she bruised her “bum” when she collided with a rock.

The adrenaline rush was over. But I still felt giddy and thought I might even try snorkeling with the salmon again. Although it might have been the beer.

Where to Dine in Campbell River – Meraki

Meraki, which is Greek for “doing something with soul, creativity, or love,” lives up to its name.

Co-owners Karen Bezaire and Emese Toth-Harasztos collaborated on a business venture to incorporate their passions, including plant-based food and floristry.

“We wanted this to be a space for the community to gather and be inspired,” said Bezaire, who also told me about an upcoming event for women experiencing breast cancer or who know someone with the disease.

“We’ll dress up in pink, have some wine and fun,” she said. “It’s a way for our community to gather and feel supported.”

The vegan-friendly menu offers choices like cabbage steak and rosemary smashed potatoes, but, my favorite was the chef’s Thai coconut soup, which had flavors as good as any I enjoyed in Bangkok.

If I lived in Campbell River, I would eat at Meraki every day.

Where to Dine in Campbell River – Freya

Equally impressive was Freya, a croissant bakery and coffee shop, and the other place I would park myself if I lived in Campbell River.

With a light, airy atmosphere, the shop seemed perfect for settling in with my laptop and a latte.

Bakers at Freya (say fray-uh) turn out the flakiest, most buttery croissants, which include fillings such as salted caramel or raspberry jam. They also serve a chocolate-based ganache.

Owner Geza Toth-Harasztos says the shop received a warm welcome from the community when it opened on July 1st, Canada Day.

“I think some people thought, ‘Really, $11 for a croissant?’ but once they tasted our product,” he said, “they kept coming back.”

According to the restaurant’s website, “Recipes are based on Danish traditions that showcase Scandinavian minimalism and perfectionism.”

For their vanilla croissant, they use Norohy vanilla from Madagascar; for the chocolate, they use Guanaja dark chocolate from Valrhona.

“My wife (Emese Toth-Harasztos who co-owns Meraki) and I are foodies,” he added, “so we love finding the best ingredients.”

Where to Explore in Campbell River – Shelter Point Distillery

Shelter Point Distillery has a well-earned reputation for producing premium single-malt whisky.

And they have the awards to back that reputation, including from the 2022 San Francisco World Spirits Competition. Shelter Point’s Single Malt and Smoke Point Whisky were each awarded a coveted Double Gold medal.

380 acres surround the popular distillery, which sits in an idyllic setting with streams and lush fields along the oceanside of Vancouver Island.

I recently joined a Shelter Point Distillery tour with brand experience manager Chris Read, who explained that part of their success comes from using water from their underground aquifer and barley grown on their farm.

My group and I sampled whiskies in the tasting room with its overstuffed leather chairs and a roaring fire. Read described what we were sampling using words like “salty” and “buttery.”

Read also answered our questions about sampling, drinking, and enjoying whisky.

“People ask me if they should add ice to our whisky,” Read said. “I tell them, ‘Hey, you buy a bottle, and you do whatever the heck you want!’”

At 10:30 a.m., it was a little early to sample too much, but I savored the Smoke Point whisky, which Whisky Advocate described as “deliciously smooth on the palate.”

If You Go:

Naturally Pacific Resort is an exceptional choice when you are deciding where to stay in Campbell River, Vancouver Island, British Columbia. 

Snorkeling with the salmon is a self-guided experience, but staff at Oceanfix.ca will rent all the gear you need and will review tips and logistics.

Campbell River Whale Watching leads excellent tours to see whales and other wildlife.  

Additional restaurant recommendations include Kung Fu, More Eatery, and Beach Fire Brewing. Check hours and dates for Shelter Point Distillery before visiting, because they do not schedule tours every day of the week.

For more information about Campbell River, visit Destination Campbell River.

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