El Jem held 35,000 spectators for gladiator spectacles. Photo by Carol L Bowman

Listen up, history buffs. Those individuals whose relentless passion is to study the culture and engineering feats of ancient civilizations and who scout archaeological sites throughout the world should put Tunisia on their ‘must-visit’ list.

This North African nation holds secrets dating back centuries before Christ, from early Phoenician to Roman sites that rival Rome, topped off with later Byzantine relics.

The dry, desert-like air has slowed the natural deterioration of primeval temples, amphitheaters and mosaic masterpieces, leaving many in a state of remarkable preservation.

Originally a Phoenician site, the Roman ruins of an entire town remain standingOriginally a Phoenician site, the Roman ruins of an entire town remain standing
Originally a Phoenician site, the Roman ruins of an entire town remain standing. Photo by Carol L Bowman

Here in Tunisia, the enthusiast has the freedom to wander through ancient cities without distractions: no hordes of tourists, no carnival atmosphere, no vendors hawking fake artifacts and almost no rules and regulations.

Without exorbitant entrance fees or overpriced lodgings, antiquity shines as the attraction, not the pomp.

Dougga

Beautiful columns and carved cornerstones of a Tunisia archeological siteBeautiful columns and carved cornerstones of a Tunisia archeological site
The capital of Dougga in North Tunisia has beautiful columns and carved cornerstones.
Photo by Carol L Bowman

We drove two hours from Tunis to the northeastern Berber village of Takrouna, a remote area untouched by urban sprawl. We then maneuvered up a winding road, eager to see the prize at the top, Dougga.

As I soaked up the enormity of seventy-five acres of the remains of civilizations dating back to the sixth century B.C., I learned that UNESCO considers this site one of the most beautiful ancient cities in the world.

The lack of tourists, other than our group of 14 Overseas Adventure travelers, enhanced the privilege.

Out over the expanse of boulders strewn along remnants of the well-worn Roman road, the rolling hills dotted with groves of age-old olive trees added a lush feel to the dusty landscape.

The amphitheater at DouggaThe amphitheater at Dougga
The amphitheater at Dougga is so well preserved they still have concerts there. Photo by Carol L Bowman

This city, completed in the second century A.D. under the reign of Augustus, supported 5,000 Roman citizens. During the excavation in 1881, French Protectorate archaeologists unearthed well-preserved ruins of villas, baths, a forum and the immense Capitol structure.

The impressive Carcalla amphitheater, its majestic Corinthian columns standing tall, greets the explorer upon entering the National Geological Park.

This venue, which seats 3,500 spectators, still stages performances of classical works. A temple dedicated to Roman Gods stands in the distance on a higher mound, looking down over the breadth of this testament to ancient ingenuity.

No study of the Roman Empire can be complete without an intensive visit to Dougga.

Best Tunisia Tours & Excursions

Colosseum Thydrus at El Jem

The amphitheater at El Jem is a beautiful Tunisia archeological siteThe amphitheater at El Jem is a beautiful Tunisia archeological site
The amphitheater at El Jem in North Tunisia rivals the Colosseum in Rome, with few tourists and half the price of admission. Photo by Carol L Bowman

Two hours southeast of Tunis by car, bus, or train, an incredible structure, the Roman Colosseum Thydrus, rises in the center of the modern-day city of El Jem.

This UNESCO World Heritage oval amphitheater, built in 238 A.D. by Emperor Gordian, remains the best-preserved Roman stone ruins in the world and the third largest amphitheater in the Roman Empire.

Seating 35,000 spectators and built specifically for gladiator events, it served to shelter local citizens in its underground passages from attacks by the Arabs in 647 A.D.

With far less deterioration and far fewer tourists, this massive arena that resembled Rome’s Colosseum took my breath away. I imagined the crowds screaming support for the gladiators fighting voracious beasts.

Author has a coffee with El Jem Roman ruins just feet awayAuthor has a coffee with El Jem Roman ruins just feet away
Located in the center of the city, the author has a coffee with the El Jem Roman ruins just feet away. Photo by Carol L Bowman

Unhampered access to intact chambers underneath the floor of the amphitheater, where warriors and animals anticipated their fate, added to the exciting exploration. At 130 feet high, the structure soared above the city’s medina. Climbing to the top stadium level offered exceptional views.

Afterwards, needing a respite from the noon sun, I sipped a Tunisian dark coffee at a tiny café directly across the street, with this magnificent stone structure only feet away. You cannot experience this ambiance in Rome.

Sbeitla Roman Ruins of Sufetula

Author Carol Bowman at the impressive Roman ruins of Sufetula  Tunisia archeological siteAuthor Carol Bowman at the impressive Roman ruins of Sufetula  Tunisia archeological site
Author Carol Bowman at the impressive Roman ruins of Sufetula, Tunisia. Photo by Carol L. Bowman

We traveled to the city of Sbeitla in west-central Tunisia, to visit the ‘must-see’ Roman archaeological site of Sufetula, founded in 67 A.D.

As we entered through the massive Triumphal Arch of Tetrarchy, which commemorated the four Roman Emperors who governed the Empire during the year 300 A.D., before Constantine the Great, I knew these ruins would be special.

Despite only twenty acres of the enormous site being excavated, we viewed one spectacular structure after another.

Three impressive temples dedicated to Roman Gods at the ruins of Sufetula at Sbeitla in North TunisiaThree impressive temples dedicated to Roman Gods at the ruins of Sufetula at Sbeitla in North Tunisia
Three impressive temples dedicated to Roman Gods at the ruins of Sufetula at Sbeitla in North Tunisia. Photo by Carol L Bowman

We walked past a residential area, a theater and a spa complex with four extensive baths tiled in mosaics, moving forward to the prize of the site.

Considered the best-preserved Roman Forum in Tunisia, the Capitolium, with three majestic temples to Roman Gods, Jupiter, Juno and Minerva, dazzled before us in absolute grandeur.

According to archaeologists, the fact that each God had its own designated temple remains unique to Sufetula. Elsewhere in the Roman Empire, one temple served to worship all three Gods.

Roman baths at SbeitlaRoman baths at Sbeitla
Roman baths at Sbeitla still have magnificent mosaic tiles that rival any in Rome. Photo by Carol L Bowman

Additionally, this site proved exceptional in that Sbeitla became the center of Byzantine culture after the fall of Rome, and relics of early Christian churches and baptisteries remain.

The seventh-century confrontation between the Arabs and the Byzantines, here in Sbeitla, resulted in the eventual Arab takeover of Tunisia.

This site is so comprehensive that any adventurer should plan an entire day to explore its treasures thoroughly.

Read More: 24 Breathtaking UNESCO World Heritage Sites You Need to See in Your Lifetime

Bardo Mosaics Museum

Complete mosaics that depict Roman African life grace the walls of the Bardo National MuseumComplete mosaics that depict Roman African life grace the walls of the Bardo National Museum
Complete mosaics that depict Roman African life grace the walls of the Bardo National Museum.
Photo by Carol L. Bowman

Although not a specific archaeological site, the Bardo National Museum, housed in the oldest historic monument in Tunisia, in a suburb of Tunis, ranks as an absolute ‘must see’ of the largest collection of Roman mosaic masterpieces in the world.

Complete wall hangings, floors and bath mosaics, unearthed and moved from ancient fields to their permanent, protected home in this largest Tunisian museum, offer scenes of everyday life in Roman Africa. The intricate beauty and craftsmanship of these mosaics left me in awe.

A famous Roman mosaic depicting lions feasting at Bardo MuseumA famous Roman mosaic depicting lions feasting at Bardo Museum
A famous Roman mosaic depicting lions feasting at Bardo Museum. Photo by Carol L Bowman

Complex issues can randomly arise at international tourist destinations and the museum suffered its darkest day on March 18, 2015. Islamic ISIS terrorists stormed the historic building, took all visitors hostage, and killed twenty-two foreigners during the standoff.

The museum appears to have recovered from this horrific event, but it remains a raw account for most Tunisians. No one mentioned the massacre to our group during our lengthy stop there, although we encountered two layers of security at the entrance.

This sprawling collection of art and artistry includes marble statues, ceramics, jewelry, Punic and Greek relics and even a bust of Aphrodite.

I felt privileged to examine this enormous array of mosaics, which once graced the walls and floors of the temples and baths we had visited.

the Colosseum Thydrus: a top archeological site in Tunisiathe Colosseum Thydrus: a top archeological site in Tunisia
The entire structure of the Colosseum Thydrus, including the underground chambers to house animals and gladiators, is well preserved. Photo by Carol L Bowman

Final Thoughts

My review of four archaeological sites in Tunisia conveyed many superlative adjectives: largest, oldest, best preserved, most beautiful and even darkest.

After experiencing these and other sites throughout this undiscovered gem in North Africa, I can offer only one suggestion: Go, explore Tunisia, discover its secrets and uncover other superlatives in your search.

Inspire your next adventure with our articles below:

Author Bio: After a lifelong profession of treating the mentally ill at a PA psychiatric hospital for 33 years, Carol retired to Lake Chapala, Mexico, in 2006 with her husband to pursue more positive passions. Her family thought that she too had ‘gone mad.’

Carol has taught English to Mexican adults and disadvantaged local children for the past 18 years. She writes for local, international, online and print publications. Using her adventures in over 120 countries, she has captured a niche in travel writing, and her stories have been featured in Go World Travel Magazine. A frequent contributor to El Ojo del Lago, the largest English-language magazine in Mexico, she’s won several literary awards from that publication.

Her psychiatric field work netted a contribution to the anthology, Tales from the Couch. Recently, she has also been featured in two more anthologies, Insider’s Guide to the Best of Mexican Holidays, and Bravados, Life, Love and Living in Lake Chapala, Mexico, all available on amazon.com.

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Go World Travel Magazine is a digital magazine for world travelers. Our editorial content is produced by a dedicated team of travel journalists who know the regions they cover. We cover travel in more than 90 countries.

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