The Gotthard Panorama Express. Photo courtesy of SBB

There’s a rhythm to train travel, a gentle sway that lets me slow down and truly connect with the landscape. While each journey holds its own charm, some truly distinguish themselves. I had long been intrigued by the reputation of Switzerland’s rail network and was keen to experience it firsthand.

My friend and I spent several days traversing the country by train, marveling at the ever-changing scenery. However, one particular excursion, easily accomplished within a single day, proved exceptional.

The Gotthard Panorama Express, offering a unique combination of land and water travel between Bellinzona (or Lugano) and Lucerne, is undeniably one of those remarkable experiences.

This iconic route is part of the Grand Train Tour, a curated collection of Switzerland’s popular scenic routes alongside the legendary Glacier Express, Bernina Express, and GoldenPass Express.

As the oldest and most vital artery between Switzerland‘s north and south, it unveils a harmonious blend of natural beauty.

With Mediterranean Flair

The Bellinzona FortressThe Bellinzona Fortress
The Bellinzona Fortress overlooks the historic town. Photo courtesy of Fortezza Bellinzona

Stepping onto the platform in Bellinzona, we’re greeted by the crisp freshness of a spring morning. This historic town, the capital of the Italian-speaking canton of Ticino, exudes the essence of “la dolce vita” – a laid-back charm tempered with Swiss precision.

We bid farewell to the imposing Fortress of Bellinzona, a UNESCO marvel with its three medieval castles. We boarded a sleek, panoramic-windowed carriage, ready to be whisked away on an unforgettable journey.

A Personal Touch to a Grand Adventure

Our guide Reinhard in the Gotthard Panorama ExpressOur guide Reinhard in the Gotthard Panorama Express
Our guide Reinhard in the Gotthard Panorama Express. Photo by Zuzana Zimmermannova

Soon, we’re welcomed by Reinhard, our guide. He’s a far cry from the typical, fleeting and grumpy ticket inspector. Reinhard’s mission is to enrich our experience with stories and insights into the panorama unfolding before us.

“I tailor my narration to each passenger,” Reinhard explains. “For sightseers, I highlight the stunning vistas. History buffs delve into the epic construction of the Gotthard Tunnel, a feat achieved at great human cost. And even on cloudy days, I share my knowledge of cloud formations, gleaned from my 15 years as a pilot.”

He then offers stamped postcards, a personal touch, promising to send them anywhere in the world, free of charge.

The Gotthard Tunnel

Biaschina ValleyBiaschina Valley
Beautiful Biaschina Valley. Photo by Zuzana Zimmermannova

Our trip takes us from southern Switzerland through the heart of the Alps. The last views of Ticino remind us of its past.

“Ticino was strategically located, but for a long time, it was one of the poorer areas of Switzerland. It used to take up to five days to cross the Alps, which isolated it from the rest of Europe,” our guide explains.

Everything changed when a tunnel was built into the Gotthard Mountain Massif. This wasn’t just any tunnel; when it was finished, it was the third longest in Europe. It was a very difficult and dangerous project, and sadly, over 100 people died during construction.

In February 1880, workers finally saw the light at the end of the tunnel. Two years later, the Gotthard Railway Company’s first train traversed the line on a route we now enjoy, comfortably ensconced with a cup of coffee in hand.

Waterfalls and Views

Church in WassenChurch in Wassen
Stunning view of the Church in Wassen. Photo by Zuzana Zimmermannova

Today, our train journeys through 44 tunnels and across 23 bridges. Along this route, the church of Wassen reveals itself from three distinct angles, a clever feat of engineering achieved through the railway’s ingenious loop tunnels. We observe the beautiful Piumogna Waterfall and the Biaschina Valley.

Just when we think we’ve seen it all, a figure by the tracks waves a giant Swiss flag in a warm greeting as we pass—a great moment for photos for those with fast hands.

Speaking of photos, besides the comfortable first-class seats with panoramic windows, there are also special photo carriages with open windows.

Lake Lucerne by Steamer

Steaming across Lake LucerneSteaming across Lake Lucerne
Steaming across Lake Lucerne. Photo by Zuzana Zimmermannova

Our train, living up to impeccable Swiss reputation, arrives in Flüelen station with unwavering punctuality. While the train continues onward, we seek a different perspective, transferring to a steamer on Lake Lucerne.

A brief stroll from the station leads us to the dock, where a classic white steamer has just arrived.

The leisurely cruise to Lucerne, lasting two and a half hours, invites us to savor every detail. It is a perfect time to indulge in regional cuisine at the onboard restaurant and surrender to the breathtaking panorama.

Legends and Landscapes

William Tell's ChapelWilliam Tell's Chapel
William Tell’s Chapel. Photo by Zuzana Zimmermannova

Steaming across Lake Lucerne, history unfolds before us. Rütli Meadow, where Switzerland’s foundation was laid, blends with picturesque lakeside towns.

Another stop is at the foot of William Tell’s chapel, a figure immortalized by Schiller’s drama and Rossini’s soaring opera.

Lucerne’s arrival is marked by the elegant silhouette of historic hotels, reminders of the bygone era when British nobility, including Queen Victoria, discovered Switzerland’s allure.

Lucerne: A Fairytale Unveiled

The Chapel Bridge in LucerneThe Chapel Bridge in Lucerne
The Chapel Bridge in Lucerne. Photo by Zuzana Zimmermannova

Though the Gotthard Panorama Express journey concludes, Lucerne, nestled between the azure lake and the majestic Rigi and Pilatus mountains, beckons.

We start the walk at the iconic Chapel Bridge, a vibrant floral display stretched across the Reuss River. It once housed a captivating gallery of triangular paintings depicting Swiss history, a treasure tragically consumed by a 1993 fire.

We ascend the Musegg walls, crowned by nine towers, and continue to the poignant Lion Monument. The city offers a wealth of cultural experiences, from the Transport Museum to the Glacier Garden and the Art Museum.

We conclude the day with a stroll along the lakeside promenade lined with historic hotels.

Stanserhorn: My Peak Pick for Lucerne Panoramas

The CabriO Cable Car to Stanserhorn carries passengers on the rooftopThe CabriO Cable Car to Stanserhorn carries passengers on the rooftop
The CabriO Cable Car to Stanserhorn carries passengers on the rooftop.
Photo by Zuzana Zimmermannova

There’s no better view of Lucerne and its surrounding lakes than from the Stanserhorn. We started in Stans, a quick hop from Lucerne, where we boarded a charming 130-year-old cog railway. The rhythmic clatter of the train felt like a step back in time.

Just as we thought it couldn’t possibly get better, we transferred to the remarkable CabriO cable car. This wasn’t just any cable car; it was a unique, open-air rooftop experience.

Standing on the roof, you can feel the cool mountain breeze against your face as the world stretches out beneath you.

Reaching the 1,900-meter summit, a panoramic restaurant offered a warm welcome. Nearby, a playful marmot enclosure provided a delightful glimpse into the mountain’s wildlife.

For those eager to explore further, a short trail led to the summit’s crown, offering even more spectacular vistas.

Change from train to steamer in FlüelenChange from train to steamer in Flüelen
Change from train to steamer in Flüelen. Photo by Zuzana Zimmermannova

If You Go

  • Getting around Switzerland is easier with Swiss Travel Pass. This single pass allows visitors to explore Switzerland from end to end by train, bus and boat for 3, 4, 6, 8, or 15 consecutive days. It includes unlimited travel on premium panoramic trains (seat reservation fees and/or surcharges apply), unlimited use of public transportation in more than 90 cities, free admission to more than 500 museums, and other benefits.
  • The Gotthard Panorama Express combines a boat ride and a train journey.
    Route: Journey in the 1st class panorama train on the historic Gotthard Railway from Lugano/Bellinzona to Flüelen/Arth-Goldau. Steam or motorboat trip across Lake Lucerne from Flüelen to Lucerne. The journey can also be made in the opposite direction.
    Distance: 182 km
    Duration: Approximately 5 hours and 30 minutes
  • Seasonal Operation: The Gotthard Panorama Express observes a winter break from mid-October to mid-April. It will resume service on April 18, 2025. Tickets and reservations are currently available.

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Author Bio: Zuzana Zimmermannova is a globally experienced freelance journalist with a passion for storytelling who shares her perspective through articles in magazines, newspapers, and online publications. With a portfolio built across 50+ countries, she delivers compelling travel stories, in-depth interviews, and insightful reports. Her work has appeared in Forbes, GEO, Go World Travel Magazine and other leading publications. Currently based between Italy and Slovakia, she explores the world, uncovering authentic local stories through food, culture, and adventure.

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