Horses pull a wagon at Devils Thumb Ranch, Grand County, Colorado. Photo by Sherry Spitsnaugle
The last time I visited Grand County, Colorado, was during the dog days of summer when sightseers filled the hiking trails and restaurants.
I recently traveled to Grand County in mid-autumn and nearly had the place to myself.
Grand County, 67 miles west of Denver, Colorado, comprises Winter Park Resort and the towns of Granby, Grand Lake, Fraser, Kremmling, and Hot Sulphur Springs.
Summer brings kayaking on Grand Lake, the town’s namesake lake. In late autumn, towns become quiet when many shops and restaurants close for the off-season, in late fall and early spring.
Read on for my recommendations for the best of Grand County, Colorado.
Grand Lake, Colorado—A Town and Namesake Lake
At an elevation of 8,369 feet, the town of Grand Lake has pure mountain air, rustic boardwalks, and locals who cross-country ski or snowmobile down Grand Avenue come winter.
Surrounded by a forested shoreline, the town’s namesake lake is ideal for sailing and kayaking in the summer and ice fishing in the winter.
Grand Lake expands from some 400 full-time residents in the winter to several thousand visitors during the summer travel season. A hush falls over the area during the off-season, which for many is the ideal time to visit.
Read More: A Guide to a Perfect Summer Vacation in Grand Lake, Colorado
Best of Grand County—Bob Scott’s Authentic Indian Jewelry
When I walked into the shop on an October day during a surprise snowstorm, Lou Lybrand greeted me with, “Welcome! We’ve got some hot cider that’ll warm you right up.”
Bob Scott’s Authentic Indian Jewelry shop is reason enough to visit Grand Lake, Colorado.
Bob Scott and his work partner, Lou Lybrand—both charismatic, knowledgeable, and ready to strike up a conversation—are why you’ll want to spend time at this local treasure.
Best of Grand County Includes Mr. Grand County Himself
Bob and Lou manage the popular shop, which consistently wins Best Customer Service in Grand County and other awards in the annual “Best of Grand” contest.
Exquisite Jewelry, Furnishings, Art
Stunning art and crafts from Native American artisans were displayed from floor to ceiling, and turquoise jewelry stocked the cases. Still, Bob mentioned the lack of merchandise.
“I’m a little low on inventory because we’re getting ready to close for the season,” Bob apologized.
I told Bob I wanted to purchase a bolo for my husband, so he selected several for me to ponder, explaining each in detail. He added that one of the bolos was made with horse hair.
‘Customer Service at its Best’
“Grand Lake is a wedding destination, so visitors come in and want something western to wear,” Bob added. “We sold some 150 bolos last summer alone.”
Bob, who has an encyclopedic knowledge of Native American jewelry and art, is recognized nationally as an authority on the subject. And if that’s not enough, Bob was named “Mr. Grand County” in the 2024 Best of Grand contest.
A storm was moving in the day I visited the shop, and I mentioned I would be driving back to Denver the following morning. Lou immediately checked her laptop for the latest weather report. That is customer service at its best.
Rocky Mountain National Park
Rocky Mountain National Park, with 415 square miles of rugged beauty and sweeping vistas, is a 10-minute drive from Grand Lake. The Park is home to elk, deer, bighorn sheep, moose, and other wildlife.
From May through early October, you can drive on Trail Ridge Road, a narrow, curvy 50-mile route that crosses the Continental Divide. At 12,000 feet elevation, the road is one of the highest paved roads in the U.S.
But once Trail Ridge Road closes, many shops and restaurants follow suit.
“It’s like a light switch,” one local told me. “Once Trail Ridge closes, everything shuts off.”
Rocky Mountain National Park Has a Hush in Off-Season
In late October, the park was mostly empty, which is one of the benefits of visiting in the off-season.
My friend and I took a short hike a few miles after entering the Park. We stopped to chat with the only people around: a couple from Toronto on their honeymoon traveling by van and a guy celebrating his 50th birthday with friends.
Unlike the busy summer months, you won’t need a reservation to enter the park in the off-season.
Dinner at Devil’s Thumb Ranch Resort – a Ranch-to-Table Experience
Devil’s Thumb, a woodsy yet swanky resort, is a 30-minute scenic drive from Grand Lake.
The evening my friend and I dined at Devil’s Thumb’s Ranch House, temperatures were pleasant enough to dine on the outside patio. Guests can also sit by a roaring fireplace with a glass of wine and a charcuterie board in the elegant dining room.
The Wagyu beef served at the Ranch House is from the herd raised right on the ranch. Known for its tender, buttery texture, the prized Wagyu steak was a delicious indulgence.
Western Vibe at Devils Thumb Ranch
After dinner, our server brought makings for s’mores (at no charge!) so we roasted marshmallows over the open flame and gazed at the scene of golden leaves.
While Devils Thumb is known for its acres of prime cross-country ski trails, it’s also popular for horseback riding, fly fishing, or fat tire mountain biking.
Even if you don’t have dinner or stay at Devil’s Thumb, I recommend driving the scenic three-mile road, off Highway 40, to the resort. You’ll pass through rich agricultural land and rolling pastures.
Take a Walking Tour in Grand Lake
You can pick up a map at most shops in Grand Lake for the self-guided walking tour, which begins at Grand Lake, the largest natural body of water in Colorado. You’ll find sandy beaches around the lake, which was known as Grand River until 1921.
On the tour, you’ll see the Yacht Club, formed in 1902 by families who owned summer homes. The brochure lists the area’s history, including information about the homes that encircle the lake, some of which were built more than a century ago with materials hauled across the frozen lake in the winter.
You’ll also pass by the site of the previous county courthouse and jail, now the Sagebrush Café.
As long as you’re at Sagebrush, you may as well stop in for a burger and a beer like we did.
Locals sat at the bar to watch sports and catch up on the news. It’s easy to love a place that feels like a community.
If You Visit Grand County, Colorado
Where to Stay
Where to Eat
Where to Shop
- Bob Scott’s Authentic Indian Jewelry, Grand Lake
- Humphreys, Grand Lake
- Mountain Market, Grand Lake. Stock up on last-minute essentials at this grocery store, and maybe some honey from nearby Tabernash, homemade granola, and even night-crawlers.
For more information about Grand County, go to Visit Grand County
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Sherry Spitsnaugle is a travel writer and guidebook author, based in Denver, Colorado. She is a member of the Society of American Travel Writers, the North American Travel Journalists Association, and the International Food Wine and Travel Writers Association.
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