Six Different South of France Hotspots in Two Days

Every holiday leaves you with lasting memories, moments you’ll remember years and decades later.

As my train left the tunnel outside of Nice Riquier in the South of France, I caught my first glimpse of the seemingly unending azure sea and knew that this picture-perfect, incomparable view was one of those moments. However, what I really want to write to you about is how I arrived at this and other views.

Why I’m Excited About the TER

What I am dying to share is all about the Transport Express Régional (TER), the regional train service that brought my friend and me to this scenery and other top holidaying spots. To be clear, I’m not some public transport obsessive; I use it simply to get from A to B.

However, the views, convenience, price, and sheer number of locations reachable via this train line make it a holiday find in itself to zoom in on and rave about.

Exploring the French Riviera on a Budget

Operating throughout France’s rural areas and linking cities with their hinterland, the South of France’s TER line is central to pretty much any well or lesser-known tourist spot.

Costing us only around ten euros a day and easily bookable using the SNCF Connect app, it was a lifesaver for traveling on a budget and our ticket to the Riviera (the thin strip of land from Cassis in the West of France to the French-Italian border in the East, largely made up of fifty-shades-of-blue Mediterranean beaches popular with holidaymakers).

A Day Trip to Monaco

To be clear, for that price, we didn’t have to scrimp on trips or avoid the must-see holiday locations. In fact, our first mini rail adventure was to one of France’s best-known locations, Monaco, where one-third of residents are millionaires – cue “Glamorous” by Fergie.

After arriving at one of the cleanest and well-lit railway stations in the South of France and anywhere else I’ve ever been, we started exploring, making our way to the harbor where we sampled Monaco’s yacht culture.

At the dock, deckhands cared for the vessels as guests, some laden down with Louis Vuitton bags, boarded the yachts – we certainly weren’t in Nice anymore. As we trod the boardwalks, we soon found ourselves surrounded by Roman Abramovich-style luxury yachts, so many that the smaller boats seemed out of place.

I guess it’s no surprise that mega-yachts are the norm since the average person in Monaco owns at least ten million dollars.

From the port, it was only a short walk (or bus ride) up the hill into the tunnel which would eventually lead us to the Monte Carlo casino – any Grand Prix fans will appreciate taking this route so that they can visit this memorable point on Formula 1’s annual Grand Prix race taking place in Monaco in May.

Passing through the marble and air-conditioned (thank God) walkway, we came out onto a sidewalk dotted with pristinely trimmed bushes and decadent balustrades before catching our first glimpse of the world-famous Monte Carlo casino.

Monaco Top Tours & Activities

Inside the Monte Carlo Casino

Designed by renowned 19th-century architect Charles Garnier and built in 1863, the casino’s Belle Epoque style (the period between 1871 and 1914 when artistic styles tended towards flowing decadence and ornamentation) was clear throughout.

Even amidst modern slot machines and casino displays, grand chandeliers and ornate sculptures ensured that Garnier’s original fin de siècle dream lived on.

Besides gambling and art appreciation, a visit to Monte Carlo casino also offers the chance to spot the locations from more than one James Bond film or indulge in delicacies at the casino’s well-known Le Train Bleu and Le Salon Rose restaurants (Le Salon Rose is a slightly cheaper alternative).

However, after buying a Monaco-priced bottle of water, we decided to leave to eat in another French town and so also chose to forego shopping in Monaco’s largely designer boutique shopping area at the same time – I use the word ‘chose’ lightly.

Luxurious Bathrooms and City Exploration

Before leaving, we did stop off at the well-known Hotel Hermitage whose staff kindly allowed us to use their toilets. I’m not about to go off on a too much information tangent, I promise! Like the rest of the country, this bathroom was preened to perfection.

Resembling a powder room from the turn of the 20th century, staff seemed to have infused the space with a delicious scent intentionally dotted around perfectly to avoid overpowering the senses and a similarly delicately-scented hand cream – even a bathroom break was an experience in the finer things in life!

That’s the thing about a trip to Monaco. You don’t have to have money to experience its luxury.

Even if you’re not looking to flash the cash in the casino, splurge on designer clothes or splash out on a ‘fabulous darling’ hotel, simply walking the beautifully hedged walkways amidst fin de siècle architecture in a country with streets cleaner than seemed possible, gives you a taste of that Louis Roederer Cristal lifestyle.

Beach Bliss at Cap D’Ail

Feet practically walked off by this point, for only another three euros, we boarded our second train of the day to Cap D’Ail to rest properly at Tik Tok’s well-hyped Mala beach.

Arriving in Cap D’Ail, we walked along a dusty path surrounded by rocks on one side and unending sea on the other; the path was pretty much completely unshaded, so remembering sun cream is key.

We traveled for about 15 minutes before we rounded a bend to find Mala’s dreamy fantasy cove of turquoise-blue water.

Unsurprisingly, Mala’s a well-loved beach, which is great if you like to sit in a chatty atmosphere, though others might simply find it crowded.

Whatever your preference, any sea-lover who flops into Mala’s blue waters will undoubtedly drift off into empty-headed bliss, relaxing like a child in the soothingly warm waters of the Mediterranean.

Snorkellers, too, will delight in the distraction of searching for fish, jellyfish, and other underwater dwellers in the crystal-clear waters. To really max out on Mala magic, walk back to Cap D’Ail station as the sun sets and relax in the fiery rays of the ultimate golden hour experience.

An Unusual Train Experience

A blissful end to a dreamy day was exactly what we needed to set us up for the following morning’s adrenaline rush.

As on other mornings, at our departure station Nice-Ville, wardens opened the ticket gates to all a few minutes before the train departed, leaving them largely unmonitored.

The laissez-faire rule of TER’s operators, combined with this particularly busy morning, led to some anxious jostling as non-ticketed travelers rushed to steal a space on the train.

If you thrive in chaos, this unusual train experience can be great fun, especially if you succeed in making it upstairs onto the train that everyone is trying to board (staying downstairs means risking getting stuck in a sweaty crowd by the doors).

If you’re more akin to an organized way of life and miss it, then no big deal, another emptier train is usually along in about 10 minutes or so. Given that many holidaymakers on the TER are en route to a beach day (as we were), such a rush seemed for most a little excitement on an otherwise relaxing day.

Discovering Eze Beach and Village

Eze, a spot on the Moyenne Corniche (a scenic 30-kilometer road between Nice and Menton) and our destination for the day, was another Southern French spot of seemingly unending azure sea. It was a long beach and so far less crowded than Mala.

Conveniently for more serious swimmers, boats don’t anchor until far out, making Eze a great choice for those looking for a long stretch of open water rather than simply some space to splash around in.

Since Eze beach lacks shaded spots, a trip to Eze Village is a great way to take a break from those UVA and UVB rays.

There are so many ways to get to this hilltop village resting 470 meters above sea level: the #83 bus from just outside Eze station (be warned it’s only scheduled once an hour), an Uber (these can be few and far between, so it’s a good idea to team up and share with others), or drive and park in the underground car park just outside the village; using any of these transport options, you’ll be at Eze in around 30 minutes.

Of course, if you’re feeling active, there is also the option of walking the Sentier Nietzsche, an hour and a half’s climb up the mountain path through wooded paths and around sea-view bends.

The Historical Charm of Eze Village

However you get there, the main thing is that you do reach the top to explore this historical village. Inhabited from around 2000 BC, the earliest recorded mention of the village refers to its fortification by the House of Savoy in the 14th century.

Since then, village ownership has passed between France and Italy, but it has been decidedly French since 1860.

While Eze’s past is still of interest today (its historic castle is a top attraction for tourists), visitors also come for its artisanal shops, Jardin Exotique, cobbled alleys full of bright flowers, and mountaintop views, which make it a great place for an evening walk and some Italian-French cuisine.

It’s also not too far off the TER train route. After finishing in Eze, we took a short 10 to 15-minute Uber ride to Villefranche-Sur-Mer, meandering lazily around the streets, happy that we could jump back on the TER whenever we felt like it.

Our Travel Guide to France

Farewell to the French Riviera

After a final rail trip to Antibes, it was time to say goodbye to the South of France. Thanks to the TER, in only two and a half days in the South of France, we had visited six different coastal towns, stopped and stared at incredible views from all over the Riviera, and noted down a list of stops to make on a future trip.

Ultimately though, thanks to the TER, we left with memories of the riches of Monaco, azure waters of Cap D’Ail, and other sunny beaches and views from enchanted French villages, which will last far longer than the days we spent there. Parfait, as the French would say!

Author Bio: Catherine McColgan is a freelance travel writer who loves finding new, adventurous and exciting places to write about. She has written for multiple publications and was a three-time runner-up in the Telegraph’s Saturday Your Say travel writing competition. Find her on Instagram @Catherinemcc01

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