Return to the City of a Hundred Spires

Prague has a way of drawing a person in before you’ve even stepped foot on its cobblestone streets. It also has a way of luring you back. The City of a Hundred Spires showcases Gothic cathedrals, fairy-tale castles and a history that unfolds like a well-loved novel.

My wife, Nataliya, and I visited Prague 17 years ago, so this was a return visit for us, this time with our teenage son, Alex. A friend who is a frequent traveler to Prague once described a return visit like visiting an old friend.

Nataliya and I were glad to be visiting our old friend, and Alex enjoyed making a new one. Some things had changed, although what struck us most was how much things remained the same.

A Bridge (Not) Too Far

Our first morning began on the Charles Bridge, a masterpiece of medieval engineering. Early enough to avoid the throngs of tourists, we strolled beneath the watchful eyes of saintly statues, some of them polished by the luck-seeking hands of visitors.

Musicians and artists were just beginning to set up for the day. We paused midway across, captivated by the view of the Vltava River reflecting the ancient cityscape.

Below the bridge, we discovered the Charles Bridge Museum. The exhibits brought the bridge’s story to life, from the 14th-century architects who defied flooding to the challenges of wartime preservation.

The museum detailed how eggs were mixed into the mortar for added strength, a centuries-old construction technique. Alex marveled at the bridge’s old wooden pilings still submerged in the Vltava.

Exiting the museum, we boarded a small boat for a one-hour cruise along the calm waters of the Vltava. We passed the bridge’s arches from below and watched the spires and buildings of Prague rise around us.

The boat took us past Kampa Island, a destination we visited on foot soon after. It is known for its scenic riverside paths, historic water mills and the famous Lennon Wall, a canvas of ever-changing street art inspired by John Lennon and dedicated to peace and freedom.

Prague Tours & Excursions

The Pulse of Old Town

Entering Prague’s Old Town Square is like stepping back in time. The cobblestone expanse is framed by historic landmarks. The Kinský Palace, now part of the National Gallery, looms in pale pink and white splendor.

Nearby, the House at the Stone Bell is one of the city’s best-preserved Gothic buildings. Just steps away, we admired the Clam-Gallas Palace, a baroque masterpiece that now hosts concerts and cultural events and is a beautiful museum filled with art and adornment that is well worth visiting.

At the square’s heart, the Astronomical Clock drew a growing crowd for its hourly show. Running since 1410, this is one of the oldest and likely the most well-known in the world.

As the clock struck the hour, Death—a skeletal figure—pulled a cord to ring a bell and flipped an hourglass, symbolizing the fleeting nature of time.

The twelve apostles paraded past the clock’s windows, blessing the crowd below. A golden rooster crowed to wrap up the spectacle.

When the show ended, we entered the clock tower and took an elevator to its panoramic top. There, we gazed down upon the red rooftops and winding streets of Old Town. After enjoying the view, we descended the stairs, watching the elevator make its rounds up and down the square staircase.

At a nearby outdoor café, we lingered in the shadow of Our Lady of Tyn, the Gothic church that dominates the square, as we sipped crisp Czech pilsner and enjoyed a bite to eat.

Alex declared fried cheese his favorite discovery of the day, while Nataliya and I indulged in hearty bowls of creamy goulash, or svíčková, served with dumplings.

For more panoramic views, we climbed the Old Town Hall Tower, which offered a spectacular vantage point over the square and beyond. Later, we visited the Powder Tower, one of the original city gates, which now serves as a stunning lookout over Prague’s medieval skyline.

Nearby, the historic Ungelt courtyard, once a medieval merchant hub, stood as a reminder of Prague’s centuries-old role in trade and commerce.

Read More: A True Bohemian Rhapsody: Celebrating Classical Music in Czechia

Castles and Kafka

The next day, we visited Prague Castle, a sprawling complex perched high above the city. The Prague City Pass made navigating the castle complex a breeze, granting us quick access to the Old Royal Palace, St. Vitus Cathedral, and Lobkowicz Palace without needing separate tickets.

A tour of the Old Royal Palace, with its Vladislav Hall—once host to indoor jousting tournaments—was our first stop in the castle.

St. Vitus Cathedral, the spiritual heart of the complex, left us awestruck. Its towering spires and intricate stonework drew us in, but it was the interior that truly enchanted us.

Sunlight streamring through the stained glass by Alfons Mucha bathed the cathedral in vibrant hues. The cathedral also houses the tomb of St. Wenceslas, the legendary patron saint of the Czech Republic, adding to its sense of sacred history.

At Lobkowicz Palace, history intertwined with personal stories. The Lobkowicz family’s centuries-old collection of art and artifacts includes original manuscripts by Beethoven and Mozart, saved from confiscation during the Communist era.

The palace’s audio guide, narrated by a modern-day Lobkowicz descendant, gave a personal touch.

Golden Lane, a charming street lined with brightly painted houses, offered a lovely stroll downhill.

One blue house stood out—Franz Kafka, Prague’s literary icon, briefly lived here with his sister. Today, the house functions as a souvenir and book shop, but I found myself imagining Kafka waking up in this little house, perhaps feeling a bit like a cockroach.

Sacred Spaces and Hidden Gems

The Loretta is a stunning Baroque pilgrimage site that should not be missed. Its gleaming spires and serene courtyard created a tranquil atmosphere, while its treasury held a remarkable collection of religious artifacts. Included is the famed Prague Sun, a monstrance adorned with more than 6,000 diamonds.

Nearby, the Strahov Monastery Library was full of words, but left us speechless. Its two ornate halls—the Theological and Philosophical Halls—are breathtaking for booklovers and library dwellers.

Rows of ancient books climbed toward elaborately painted ceilings, and the faint scent of aged paper filled the air.

The Clementinum: Prague’s Intellectual Jewel

Back in Old Town, we explored the Clementinum, a sprawling complex that once served as the center of Jesuit education. The Baroque Library Hall, with its frescoed ceiling and gilded shelves, was a highlight, reminiscent of the Strahov library halls.

From the library, we climbed wooden, metal and stone stairs to the Clementinum’s Astronomical Tower.

We were rewarded with breathtaking views of the city. It may be one city, but each tower and lookout offered a unique perspective of the classic, old-world cityscape.

As we strolled through Old Town, we came to the Cubist House of the Black Madonna, an architectural rarity in a city defined by the Gothic and Baroque.

We stepped inside and climbed the unusually shaped staircase to visit the famous Cubist café for an espresso and a slice of traditional Prague cake—a fusion of old and new.

Read More: Top 10 Things to Do in Prague

Art Nouveau Elegance

The Municipal House, an Art Nouveau masterpiece, was another highlight of our trip. Its stunning stained-glass windows and frescos by Alfons Mucha were a feast for the eyes.

Mucha, a Czech national treasure, blended the flowing lines of Art Nouveau with a deep love for his homeland and local folklore.

Over coffee and decadent cakes in the Municipal House Café, we reflected on Mucha’s contributions to Czech identity. His stained glass in St. Vitus Cathedral, his posters for the Czech independence movement and his Slav Epic series all tell stories of a nation’s soul.

Prague is full of unexpected surprises. Even the more modern buildings have style. A good example is the “Fred and Ginger” buildings, which appear to dance right in front of you.

Ending Where We Began

Oftentimes when we visit a city, we like to spend the first day walking around and getting oriented and our last day strolling the area that has become familiar for one last experience.

Prague is one of those ancient cities where you could spend a month exploring and still not feel like you’ve seen it all—or spend a week and feel like you’ve seen a lifetime.

As twilight fell on our final day in Prague, we walked across Charles Bridge, bid farewell to the monument to Charles IV, and returned to Old Town Square. Here we took in the tall, colorful buildings and imposing Gothic spires of Our Lady of Tyn.

We enjoyed a last meal of goulash, dumplings and fried cheese and washed it down with crisp Czech pilsner. In the distance, from our café, we could see the crowd gathering, and could hear the astronomical clock putting on its show.

It was time for us to leave, but we knew we would be visiting our old friend again one day.

If You Go

Prague has an international airport, so you can find flights from just about anywhere. A taxi ride to Old Town cost us about $30 and nearly as many minutes.

A Prague City Pass, available through the city’s tourist website, makes it easy and affordable to visit the best sites of the city. Not only does it grant access to many of Prague’s best sites, it provides passage on the city’s public transportation.

We split our time between two lodging experiences. One was at the Don Giovanni Hotel, which offered comfortable rooms, a complimentary bottle of wine at check-in, a healthy breakfast buffet, an affordable restaurant headed by a Michelin chef, and daily piano concerts in the beautiful lobby every evening.

The accommodations were affordable and nice, and it was just a few minutes’ walk from the metro that took about 20 minutes to get into town.

The other part of our stay was at an apartment, Residence Dlouha, right in the heart of Old Town and only steps from Old Town Square.

Although not as luxurious as the hotel, the flat was roomy, comfortable and a zero-minute walk to Old Town—since we were already there. A great trade-off. They also offered discounts at some local restaurants, including The Spot, a café in the same building.

Hotel or flat rental, either way you go, you win.

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Author Bio: Eric D. Goodman is author of seven books. His most recent, Faraway Tables, is a collection of poems focused on travel and a longing for other places. Learn more about Eric and his writing at www.EricDGoodman.com

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