The medieval hilltop village of Allerona in Umbria, Italy. Designated one of the most beautiful hilltop villages in Italy. Photo courtesy of Edi Solari

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I’ve traveled to some of Italy’s most popular destinations, intent on visiting the famous museums, architectural wonders, master artworks, and historical sites—all while indulging in amazing food and wine along with hundreds of other people yearning to see and do the same things.

As one of the world’s most popular countries to visit, it’s hard to escape the constant throng of lines and crowds, no matter the season. Even so, I’ve still enjoyed myself. The Italian “la dolce vita” lifestyle is so alluring. So, where do you go if you want to slow down and embrace an authentic Italian lifestyle without the crowds?

Not All Hill Towns in Italy Are Alike

Evening in Allerona, ItalyEvening in Allerona, Italy
Sunset colors the hilltop village of Allerona, Italy. Photo courtesy of Edi Solari

On previous visits, while traveling by train into the heart of Central Italy, I’ve always enjoyed viewing the picturesque rolling hills dotted with ancient walled villages perched on the highest points of the countryside. I wondered what life was like living in a small, secluded spot away from the hustle and bustle of larger towns nearby.

Since I was in Rome for a few days, I decided it was the perfect opportunity to visit one of these hilltop beauties. I decided upon one of the Borghi più belli d’Italia, located in Umbria, a region often overlooked for its more famous cousin, the neighboring region of Tuscany. Less than an hour’s drive or train ride from Rome made it a convenient add-on option, considering the limited time constraints of my Italian vacation itinerary.

There are over 350 certified I Borghi più belli d’Italia to visit throughout Italy. Translated as “the most beautiful villages in Italy,” these “borghi” or small villages, are considered quintessential examples that highlight the unique beauty, art, architecture, and culture of historic villages dating back to the Middle Ages and Renaissance period.

Walled hill towns began popping up as a result of the demise of the Roman Empire. No longer under Roman protection, settlements in low-lying areas were susceptible to invasion. As a result of numerous incursions, massive walled towns built on hilltop locations minimized the threat of attacks.

Arguably, you could say just about any place in Italy is teeming with history and heritage. However, these smaller, slightly hidden villages don’t share the limelight status of the big-name, often crowded Italian cities. They are off the mainstream tourist circuit. The private, non-profit organization, I Borghi più belli d’Italia, aids in promoting and in the preservation of these lesser-known Italian gems.

Read More: Behind the Scenes of Workaway: Lessons Learned Volunteering on an Italian Farm

Crowd-Free Allerona

Allerona, Italy countrysideAllerona, Italy countryside
Forested hillside dotted with olive orchards and vineyards in Allerona, Italy. Photo courtesy of Gigi Ragland

For the Italophile or for those seeking an Italian small-town experience without the crowds, a quiet medieval hilltop village could be the perfect choice. I had recently learned about a new tour operator offering slow-travel immersive experiences in the medieval hilltop village of Allerona. This borgo was completely unknown to me. I relished the idea of enjoying a crowd-free, small-town environment where you can walk amongst more locals than tourists.

Most of the Umbrian hill towns date back to the 1100s. “The Borghi più belli d’Italia are almost all walled towns (or borghi/villages) that were built up around a castle,” says Elizabeth Heath, co-owner of Villaggio Tours. Allerona showcases a large section of intact medieval stone walls, with beautifully preserved buildings inside the walls that helped earn its designation, informs Heath.

Not only is the interior of the ancient medieval town a feast for the eyes, but Allerona is blessed with picturesque views of the beautiful Umbrian landscape. Beech and fir trees dot the countryside, while terraced slopes of vineyards and olive orchards cascade down into the valley below.

Heath offers a time-traveler’s description of what visitors can expect upon entering the walled village. “When walking through the Porta del Sole, the main gate, you are essentially seeing the same Allerona that’s existed since the 12th century. If a resident from the 1300s, 1400s, 1500s were to walk through today, they would know the streets and be able to find their family home.”

Locals Want Tourists to Visit Allerona

Inside the walled town of Allerona, ItalyInside the walled town of Allerona, Italy
The author on a stroll inside the ancient walled town of Allerona, Italy. Photo courtesy of Gigi Ragland

The brainchild of husband and wife team, Elizabeth Heath and Paolo Marchetti, Villaggio Tours offers multi-day to week-long group trips to experience local life in Allerona and activities within the nearby Umbrian countryside. By offering immersive experiences, guests get a chance to see how everyday Italians live in a small town.

Depending on the season, guests can experience activities with locals like harvesting grapes from vineyards or olives from nearby orchards, a nature/history walk where a guide explains how farmers used to live and work the land, or cooking with a nonna (Italian grandmother).

Preserving a Way of Life

The village holds a personal attachment to the couple, as Marchetti was born and raised in Allerona, where his extended family still lives. Over the years, they have witnessed a decline in the population of not just their village but other medieval hilltop Borghi as people moved on to areas convenient to modern life where it’s easier to find employment and have access to a more urban lifestyle. “As old-timers pass on, stores and other businesses close as the village depopulates,” says Heath.

Their decision to develop small-group immersion tours of Allerona and Umbria couldn’t have been better timed. As much of Italy has been experiencing over-tourism, their methodology was to create tours without the crowds and chaos to ultimately offer an authentic small-town experience.

“We bring people to Allerona, have them stay within the old town walls, meet local residents, and see what daily life is like in a medieval Italian hill town,” says Heath. Residents welcome visitors and are excited to offer their hospitality. “We’ve had such positive feedback and support from our neighbors, who are proud of our village and ready to open their homes, kitchens, and cantinas to Villaggio Tours guests,” she says.

Heath suggests that travelers who like access to a bevy of entertainment and activities available to them with multiple restaurants, cafes, and shops may not be content with the more quiet, slow-travel experience of local village life. Guests on a Villaggio tour can still enjoy the beauty and charms of the Italian lifestyle in a different way while allowing the most crowded places some relief.

Read More: Italy’s Hidden Charm: Umbria, Tuscany and the Dolomites

Arrive as a Stranger, Leave as a Friend

Pasta Making Class in Allerona, ItalyPasta Making Class in Allerona, Italy
Nonna Marchetti and granddaughter show how to roll pasta sheets in the kitchen, Allerona, Italy. Photo courtesy of Gigi Ragland

I discovered that you really are joining in with neighbors, townspeople, family members, and friends of Elizabeth Heath, her husband, and their extended Italian family. In just a few short days, I enjoyed a variety of activities connecting with the people of the village.

One day, along with another small group guest, we were welcomed into the home of Nonna Marchetti, the mother of Heath’s husband, Paolo. Nonna Marchetti led us to her kitchen, where we donned aprons for a lesson on how to make pasta. After mixing the ingredients and kneading the dough, Nonna, with the assistance of her granddaughter, rolled out perfect sheets of pasta from an old-fashioned manual pasta maker.

They made it look easy. I managed to crank out an acceptable sliver of sheet. We then placed the sheets gently onto several pans of metal ravioli molds. I gained a new appreciation for ravioli making. Cooking with Nonna was a chance to slow down and take part in preparing a dish that’s been enjoyed by the family for generations.

Later, for lunch, we dined on our pasta creation with family at the table. Friends and neighbors dropped in for a quick bite, and one brought bottles of homemade grappa (an Italian liquor). It felt like we were more than tourists or travelers as we joked and feasted together. When you dine together, you commune together. It was the kind of slow-travel experience I was looking for: a more immersive connection with the local community.

On another occasion, we were invited by the owner of a noble palace in town for early evening wine and apperitivos where we marveled at the artwork and decor of the centuries-old palace. At sunset, we relished the views of the Umbrian countryside from the balcony while we sipped a local vintage. It capped off a great day of guided historical walks exploring Allerona’s medieval highlights and other nearby small hill towns.

Villaggio Tours arranged a garden farewell cookout on the last night overlooking the Umbrian Valley with neighbors, relatives, and friends of the village. They offer this special event when possible to their small group tours. The gesture left me with such gratitude, especially when Nonna Marchetti presented a bag of freshly made biscotti to take home with me.

These are just a few examples of how I experienced a bit of immersive “la dolce vita” in Allerona with Villaggio Tours. Heath says that guests find the people of Allerona even warmer and more welcoming than they imagined. That was certainly the case with my visit. “There is so much joy happening during these tours,” she says; “it’s just a delight to be part of. And people are definitely surprised by how much we eat and drink!”

If You Go:

Santa Maria della Stella, Allerona, ItalySanta Maria della Stella, Allerona, Italy
The 12th-century church of Santa Maria della Stella in Allerona, Italy. Photo courtesy of Gigi Ragland

You can find out more about Villaggio Tours in Allerona and their seasonal 2025 day-trips and multi-day offerings on their website. Several new trips pair visiting Allerona with other destinations in Italy like Rome, Venice, and Coastal Italy.

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Author Bio: Gigi Ragland is a freelance travel writer that seeks experiences that employ the senses, fuel the mind and enrich the body and spirit. Her stories cover outdoor adventure, culture, nature and food. Her writing has appeared in AARP, Conde Nast Traveler, Denver Post Newspaper, National Geographic Travel, Saturday Evening Post and more. Follow her global travels on Instagram @lafemmetraveler.

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