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If the District sleeps alone at night, as the Postal Service song suggests, the city certainly awakens by day. It becomes alive with the buzz of politics and history, lobbyists and tourists.
Living in nearby Maryland, my wife and I often find ourselves in Washington, DC for conferences, events or to visit museums.
As we came out of the pandemic and began to test the waters of travel again, we decided to treat our most recent DC visit the way we might one of our further-afield vacations.
To our delight, we discovered it to be as full, engaging and meaningful as many of our favorite cities in Europe. Similar to those cities, DC is packed with monuments, museums and historical sites.
We arrived on a crisp spring morning, the cherry blossoms in full bloom. The National Mall was our anchor—a sprawling green expanse stretching over two miles, bordered by some of the most iconic structures and museums in the United States.
Memories
“I remember when I first came to America in 1995,” Nataliya mused as we strolled the Tidal Basin, where cherry blossom pedals descended upon the grass. “After New York, Philadelphia, Cincinnati, and Chicago, when we came to DC, I thought it felt like the most European city in America.”
I remember her saying that when we arrived in DC for the first time together, back in 1995, and “Where are all the people?” On a Sunday morning before the tourists had risen, our companions were mainly occasional joggers and dog-walkers.
Today, nearly thirty years later in 2024, it was a little more populated, although still not as crowded as many cities. It’s easy to walk through the sights of Washington, DC and not feel like you’re in a sea of people. Especially when situated in a comfortable and conveniently located downtown hotel.
During our recent visit, we made our home at the Westin – Downtown DC, an easy walk to the District’s most popular sites.
After checking in and strolling through the cherry blossom trees of the Tidal Basin, we started our tour at the heart of art and culture.
The National Gallery of Art
Walking through the grand entrance of the National Gallery of Art, we were immediately struck by the serene beauty of the building. The gallery is divided into two main sections.
The West Building houses classical works from the Middle Ages to the 19th century. The East Building features modern and contemporary art.
As we wandered through the galleries, we viewed masterpieces by artists like Rembrandt, Vermeer, and Raphael. My wife, an avid art enthusiast, was particularly taken by Vermeer’s “Woman Holding a Balance.” She was mesmerized by the delicate balance of light and shadow.
Moving through the galleries, we came across stunning pieces by the Impressionists and members of the Barbizon School.
The landscapes by Charles-François Daubigny and Gustave Courbet drew us in with their rich textures and evocative depictions of the natural world.
We marveled at Claude Monet’s “The Japanese Footbridge,” its vibrant hues capturing the play of light on water.
Nearby, Pierre-Auguste Renoir’s “A Girl with a Watering Can” showcased his delicate brushwork and mastery of color.
Some of these paintings we’ve enjoyed many times over our years of visits, such as Monet’s “Church at Vetheuil” and Renoir’s “Woman with a Parasol in a Garden.”
We also watched as modern painters copied masterworks from the museum. Their fresh canvasses duplicated those hanging on the wall perfectly to the brushstroke.
The works of Picasso, Pollock and Warhol offered a striking contrast. The modern architecture of the East Building, designed by I. M. Pei, with its geometric forms and open spaces, created a perfect backdrop for these avant-garde pieces.
We spent hours here, losing ourselves in the vibrant colors and bold forms.
The National Portrait Gallery and Smithsonian American Art Museum
From the National Gallery of Art, we made our way to the nearby National Portrait Gallery and the Smithsonian American Art Museum. These two institutions in the same historic building offered a different yet equally captivating perspective on American art and history.
In the National Portrait Gallery, we explored the portraits of American icons. Gilbert Stuart’s famous portrait of George Washington, with its dignified and resolute expression, stood as a powerful symbol of leadership.
We also admired the contemporary portraits, including Kehinde Wiley’s striking depiction of President Obama. The piece juxtaposed traditional portraiture with vibrant, modern elements.
The Smithsonian American Art Museum showcased a wide range of works, from early American masterpieces to contemporary pieces.
One of the highlights was Edward Hopper’s “Cape Cod Morning,” a painting that captured a moment of quiet introspection. Another was Childe Hassam’s “The South Ledges, Appledore,” showcasing impressionism in America.
The museum’s collection of folk art, with its whimsical and deeply personal pieces, provided a unique glimpse into the diverse cultural fabric of the nation.
Museums on the Mall
Next on our itinerary were the Smithsonian Museums, a collection of 19 museums and galleries that cater to every interest. We decided to visit a few of the most renowned.
National Museum of American History
At the National Museum of American History, we traced the evolution of American culture. Exhibits showcasing the Star-Spangled Banner, the First Ladies’ Inaugural Gowns and the original “Muppets” brought back a wave of nostalgia.
C-3PO and R2-D2 looked across the room at Prince’s purple guitar and Dorothy’s ruby slippers.
My wife and I shared stories from our childhood, connecting our personal histories to the broader American narrative.
National Air and Space Museum
The National Air and Space Museum was a highlight for its sheer scope and ambition. We marveled at the Wright brothers’ primitive plane, the Spirit of St. Louis and the Apollo 11 command module.
As we stood beneath the towering rockets, we felt a sense of human ingenuity and the unrelenting pursuit of exploration.
National Museum of Natural History
In the National Museum of Natural History, we were greeted by the giant elephant in the lobby. The Hope Diamond lured us into the vast collection of jewels, minerals, meteorites and fossils. The dinosaur skeletons were a favorite, sparking a childlike awe in both of us.
Animals from nature posed in active positions. The museum’s exhibits offered a fascinating glimpse into the natural world, from the depths of the ocean to the far reaches of outer space.
National Museum of African American History and Culture
The National Museum of African American History and Culture welcomed us with its striking bronze façade. This bold architectural statement was inspired by the ironwork created by enslaved African Americans in the South.
Inside, we delved into exhibits that vividly chronicled the African American experience. The exhibits covered everything from the brutal realities of the transatlantic slave trade to the triumphs of the Civil Rights Movement.
Nataliya and I found ourselves particularly moved by the Emmett Till memorial. We were also inspired by the interactive displays on the cultural contributions of African Americans in music, art and sports.
National Museum of the American Indian
Our next stop was the National Museum of the American Indian, a building whose curved, organic design reflects natural rock formations.
The museum’s layout leads visitors through an immersive journey of indigenous cultures. We explored the exhibits showcasing traditional clothing, intricate beadwork and ceremonial objects.
Nataliya admired the craftsmanship of the artifacts, while I was captivated by the storytelling exhibits that brought to life the rich oral traditions of Native American tribes.
The museum’s focus on the contemporary lives of Native peoples added a dynamic perspective to our understanding of their enduring cultures.
The Hirshhorn Museum and Sculpture Garden
The sun beat down as we approached the massive, donut-shaped Hirshhorn Museum. Inside, we spent an hour exploring the innovative galleries featuring the works of artists like Jackson Pollock and Alexander Calder.
Stepping outside into the Sculpture Garden, we were greeted by a sprawling oasis of modern art. Massive, thought-provoking sculptures dotted the landscape.
We strolled leisurely through the garden, stopping to take in Louise Bourgeois’s monumental spider sculpture. Its spindly legs seemed to reach out towards the sky.
One of our favorite installations, “Last Conversation Piece” by Juan Muñoz, was no longer there, currently on loan to the Contemporary Austin. It certainly was a conversation piece.
We debated the meaning behind Barbara Hepworth’s abstract creations, their smooth curves and sharp angles sparking conversation.
Nearby, the gleaming “Graft” by Roxy Paine stood out. Its intricate network of stainless steel and silver plating branches reflected the sunlight, blending organic with industrial.
Walking further, we were captivated by Auguste Rodin’s “The Burghers of Calais,” a powerful display of human emotion cast in bronze.
Not far from it, Henry Moore’s “Two-Piece Reclining Figure, Cut” presented a harmonious blend of form and space.
The Hirshhorn’s sculpture garden was a pleasant place for an outdoor walk, where nature and art collide.
Heartbeat of the Nation
In the heart of Washington, D.C., are the documents that founded the nation and keep it alive. The National Archives is a sanctuary of American history, housing the nation’s most cherished documents under its neoclassical roof.
Stepping inside, visitors are greeted by the Rotunda for the Charters of Freedom. Here, the Declaration of Independence, the Constitution and the Bill of Rights are displayed in dimly lit splendor. Each parchment and signature bears witness to the birth of a nation and the enduring principles that guide it.
Beyond the Rotunda, the Archives’ exhibitions delve deeper into America’s story. Showcased are diverse records from presidential papers and iconic photographs that illuminate pivotal moments in the country’s evolution.
Whether tracing the footsteps of the Founding Fathers or discovering lesser-known narratives, a visit to the National Archives is a profound journey through the annals of American identity and democracy.
Out for a Show
There is no shortage of options when it comes to theater and nightlife in DC. However, for me, two venues often come to mind as being sites in and of themselves: Ford’s Theatre and the Kennedy Center.
Ford’s Theatre, forever etched in history as the site of President Abraham Lincoln’s assassination, is both a historic landmark and a vibrant performing arts venue.
Visitors can explore exhibits detailing Lincoln’s legacy and the tragic events of April 14, 1865, before attending live theatrical productions. I remember seeing a production of John Steinbeck’s The Grapes of Wrath here about 20 years ago, which left an impression.
In contrast, the John F. Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts embodies modernity and artistic excellence on the banks of the Potomac River.
Named in honor of President Kennedy, this architectural masterpiece hosts a diverse array of performances across its multiple theaters. Attendees can enjoy everything from classical concerts and ballets to Broadway shows and contemporary dance.
Its expansive campus also features outdoor spaces with stunning views of the city, making it a cultural hub where creativity thrives amid Washington, D.C.’s monumental backdrop.
My first visit to the Kennedy Center was for a reception on one of their scenic balconies. After that, in 2011, Nataliya and I took in Les Misérables at the Kennedy Center. It was the closing season of the show and there weren’t many empty chairs. As I write this, Les Misérables is running there once again.
Capitol Architecture
Our first day was focused on museums, so we decided to devote the next to monuments and architecture.
Library of Congress
We always try to walk by the Library of Congress (and sometimes drop inside) when in DC. Years ago, when we used to drive to DC for weekend visits with the kids, we often parked near the Library of Congress building and marveled at the library’s stately exterior.
As we approached the magnificent Thomas Jefferson Building during this visit, we were reminded of its grandeur.
The exterior is adorned with elaborate sculptures and intricate carvings, reflecting the Beaux-Arts architectural style. The central dome, topped with a gilded torch, symbolizes enlightenment and knowledge.
Inside, the Library of Congress Great Hall boasts a stunning mosaic ceiling, marble columns and elaborate murals celebrating human achievement.
The Main Reading Room, with its towering bookshelves and exquisite dome, serves as a temple of learning. The vast collections and the rich history contained within these walls make the Library of Congress a must-see for anyone passionate about literature, history or culture.
Whether you are an avid reader, a history enthusiast, or simply appreciate architectural beauty, the Library of Congress is worth checking out.
Capitol Building
Nearby is what I consider to be the crown jewel of Washington DC: the Capitol Building. The massive building is a striking example of Neoclassical architecture.
Its white marble exterior is adorned with tall Corinthian columns that convey a sense of strength and elegance. The dome, topped by the Statue of Freedom, dominates the skyline, symbolizing liberty and the nation’s ideals.
Surrounding the Capitol, well-maintained lawns and gardens offer a peaceful setting, inviting visitors to explore its historical significance firsthand.
We joined a guided tour of the Capitol Building, beginning with the impressive Rotunda, its dome soaring above us. Our guide regaled us with tales of the building’s history and its significance in the American democratic process.
We explored the National Statuary Hall, where statues of notable figures from each state stood in silent testament to the country’s diverse heritage. The grandeur of the Senate and House chambers were rich in decor and historical significance.
The White House
The White House, with its stately facade and manicured lawns, was our next stop. Though we could only admire it from the outside and from afar, the sight was nonetheless impressive.
I remember the days when you could practically stand on the doorstep, the viewing area now pushed back given today’s sometimes violent political climate.
We imagined the weight of decisions made within its walls, shaping the course of the nation and the world. We also imagined being invited in for high tea. But Some things are left to the imagination.
The Washington Monument
From the White House, we made our way to the Washington Monument. This towering obelisk, standing at over 555 feet, is a tribute to George Washington, the nation’s first president.
We took an elevator ride to the top, where we were rewarded with panoramic views of the city. From this vantage point, the Mall stretched out below us, a green ribbon bordered by the historic buildings we had explored and those yet to come.
“I remember my first visit here,” I said to Nataliya, telling her about my High School field trip from Virginia, about taking the elevator up the monument and then descending the stairs and admiring the commemorative cornerstones on each landing.
Lincoln Memorial
After descending from the monument, we walked along the Reflecting Pool towards the Lincoln Memorial. The sun was beginning to set, casting a golden glow over the water.
The imposing statue of Abraham Lincoln, seated in contemplation, greeted us as we climbed the steps of the memorial. The inscriptions of his Gettysburg Address and Second Inaugural Address on the walls resonated with us, a powerful reminder of his enduring legacy.
“I think of this as the ultimate meeting point,” Nataliya said as we stood on the grand staircase of Lincoln’s Memorial.
When Nataliya first came to America, we went on a road trip to meet some of my friends across the country. One of them was Bryan, who lived in Virginia, near DC, at the time. We wanted to meet in a monumental place. We agreed to meet on the steps of the Lincoln Memorial.
“It was an impressive place to meet, wasn’t it?” I agreed.
Standing on the steps of the Lincoln Memorial, we looked out over the National Mall and the Washington Monument. It was a moment of reflection, not just on the place, but on the past.
The Jefferson Memorial and War Memorials
Our next day in Washington, DC, was dedicated to the memorials and monuments that pay tribute to those who served and sacrificed for the country.
With its neoclassical architecture and serene setting by the Tidal Basin, the Jefferson Memorial was a peaceful spot to start our day. The statue of Thomas Jefferson, surrounded by excerpts from his writings, stood as a testament to his vision for America.
We then visited the Vietnam Veterans Memorial, a somber and moving tribute to the soldiers who lost their lives in the Vietnam War. This is commonly referred to as The Vietnam Wall and perhaps our country’s most famous war memorial.
The polished black granite wall, etched with the names of the fallen, reflected our faces as we walked along its length. With more than fifty-eight thousand names chiseled into the wall, it was a poignant reminder of the cost of war and the sacrifices made by so many.
The Korean War Veterans Memorial’s haunting statues of soldiers trudging through rough terrain conveyed the hardship and determination of those who served.
The nearby World War II Memorial, with its grand arches and fountains, honored the bravery and sacrifice of the Greatest Generation.
We paused at the Freedom Wall, adorned with gold stars representing the lives lost, each star a powerful symbol of sacrifice. The first time we visited DC together, this memorial wasn’t here. Now, it can’t be missed.
MLK and FDR
Two great men most people can identify by their initials alone are memorialized in DC. We decided to pay each of them a visit.
At the Martin Luther King Jr. Memorial, we stood before the imposing granite statue of Dr. King, emerging from a “Mountain of Despair.”
The memorial is located in a serene setting by the Tidal Basin. The quotes etched into stone walls resonated deeply, reflecting Dr. King’s vision of equality and justice.
From there, we walked to the nearby Franklin Delano Roosevelt Memorial, which provided a contemplative journey through a pivotal period in American history.
The outdoor rooms, each symbolizing a term of FDR’s presidency, were filled with sculptures and inscriptions depicting the challenges of the Great Depression and World War II.
We were particularly impressed by the statue of Eleanor Roosevelt, which recognized her significant humanitarian contributions. The sound of cascading waterfalls throughout the memorial added a soothing backdrop as we reflected on the era’s hardships and triumphs.
National Holocaust Memorial Museum
The first time I visited the National Holocaust Memorial Museum, it left such an impression that it inspired me to include at the center of a short story in my first novel-in-stories, Tracks.
Walking through the museum’s doors, we were immediately confronted by the stark reality of human cruelty and the enduring strength of the human spirit. The atmosphere was somber as visitors moved through the exhibits in hushed reverence.
The architecture itself fit the mood, with its cold, industrial design evoking the barrenness and brutality of the concentration camps.
Nataliya and I entered the dimly lit halls, our guidebooks momentarily forgotten in the face of the overwhelming narrative laid out before us.
One of the first things we encountered was a towering wall filled with photographs of Jewish families, their faces smiling, frozen in time before the horrors of the Holocaust unfolded. These images, ordinary snapshots of birthdays, weddings, and everyday life, drove home the individual, human tragedy of the genocide.
A Somber Experience
We moved through the museum, stopping often to read the personal stories, letters and diary entries that brought the historical events into stark, intimate focus.
The sheer scale of the tragedy became even more tangible as we stood before a railcar that had transported countless individuals to their deaths. The cold steel and claustrophobic interior felt oppressive as we passed through it.
The Hall of Remembrance, with its eternal flame, served as a tribute to the victims. We lit a candle, joining countless others who had come before us to honor lost lives.
The exhibits on the Nazi rise to power, the ghettos and the concentration camps were meticulously detailed. Each artifact and display was carefully chosen to educate and evoke empathy.
I was particularly struck by the shoes — thousands of them heaped in a pile. Each pair had once belonged to someone, a life cruelly cut short.
A Walk in the Neighborhood
For those exploring Washington, DC, beyond the Mall, Georgetown is a must-visit neighborhood that offers a blend of historic charm and modern allure. Easily accessible from the Mall area, it’s a pleasant walk or a short ride away, making it a convenient addition to any itinerary.
The cobbled streets and elegant brick townhouses adorned with vibrant flowers and wrought iron details make Georgetown picturesque.
Visitors can enjoy a mix of boutique shops, cozy cafes and waterfront views along the Potomac River.
Meanwhile, the bustling M Street and Wisconsin Avenue are perfect for shopping and dining, while the serene C & O Canal provides a peaceful retreat for a leisurely stroll. (I once took a three-day backpacking trip with my brother and father along the C & O Canal trail.)
Embassy Row, which stretches into Georgetown, features a collection of grand embassies, including the British Embassy. This embassy occupies the site once known as Normanstone, the ancestral home of the Barnard family from my own lineage.
Robert Barnard, an English immigrant and notable figure in Georgetown, lived here after the home was built in the 1830s. Normanstone’s grand architecture and beautifully maintained grounds add a touch of historical significance to the neighborhood.
“Don’t you wish this was still in the family?” Nataliya teased.
“I’d probably have to share it with ten thousand other decedents,” I joked. “It would be a bit crowded.”
Georgetown University, with its impressive Gothic architecture, and Dumbarton Oaks (a historic estate with stunning gardens and a museum) are also notable attractions.
The neighborhood’s blend of history, culture, and modern amenities make it well worth a leisurely stroll.
It’s a Zoo Out There
The National Zoo offered a refreshing change of pace from our historical and political explorations. Home to more than 2,700 animals, the zoo is lively and engaging.
The lush, well-maintained grounds provided a relaxing environment as we wandered from exhibit to exhibit, soaking in the diverse array of wildlife.
Years ago, we remembered that one of the highlights of the zoo was the giant panda habitat. However, the pandas were only visitors here, and they returned home to China in 2023.
But no need to worry; the habitat is being renovated and the zoo signed a 10-year agreement with China for a new set of pandas. They’re expected to move in by the end of 2024.
Our favorite part of this visit was the Great Cats exhibit, where the majesty of the lions and tigers captivated us. The lions lounged regally in the sun, their golden coats gleaming. Meanwhile, the tigers paced with an almost hypnotic grace.
The immersive design of the habitats allowed us to feel close to these creatures, appreciating their power and beauty.
While the monkey business on Capitol Hill may be what usually comes to mind when thinking of DC, we also enjoyed spending some time with the monkeys and apes at the National Zoo. These days, they seem to get almost as much done. Perhaps we have the wrong monkey house in charge of passing budgets and establishing laws.
The National Cathedral
On the last morning of our extended visit to DC, we visited the National Cathedral, a majestic structure that stands as both a place of worship and a national treasure.
The Gothic architecture, with its soaring spires, intricate carvings and gargoyles, is awe-inspiring. Look closely and you may even spot Darth Vader looking down from his perch.
We attended a guided tour, learning about the cathedral’s history and its role in national ceremonies.
Inside, the stained-glass windows, including the Space Window with a piece of lunar rock, cast colorful patterns on the stone floors. The Woodrow Wilson Bay, dedicated to the 28th president, and the Martin Luther King Jr. Bay, honoring the civil rights leader, highlighted the cathedral’s significance as a place of religion, reflection and remembrance.
Not Ready to Leave
As is often the case when enjoying a visit to an interesting city, we were not ready to leave when the time came—but the time had come. To make another reference to the Postal Service song, “The District Sleeps Alone Tonight,” one thing we certainly weren’t thinking was that DC was the one worth leaving.
We would have stayed longer if we could have, and we knew we would return one day soon for another of our many day trips.
A Final Look
To end our extended exploration of Washington, DC, we strolled along the green of the National Mall and took in the impressive buildings and monuments one last time.
Whether it’s in Europe, the United States, Asia, or Africa, we often find our favorite thing to do after we arrive and before we depart is to walk around and take it all in.
The view of the United States Capitol Building, whether backlit at dawn or dusk or sunlit from above, never ceases to impress me. The dome looks so rich and heavy atop the building, crowning perhaps the city’s most beautiful work of architecture.
Others flock to the White House and Washington Monument. If I had a choice of address, I’d make mine the Capitol Building. Just as long as I could evict some of the current residents first.
Where to Stay in Washington, DC
There are several places to stay for a long weekend or short week in the nation’s capital. We made our bed at the Westin — Washington, DC Downtown. With its sleek, biophilic design, this upscale, wellness-focused hotel immediately set a tone of calm sophistication.
Check-in was seamless, and our room was a blend of modern elegance and comfort. It featured a city view, a comfortable bed and chairs that were so easy to fall into that we almost wanted to nap in them.
The hotel features the city’s largest hotel fitness studio, which spans more than 10,000 square feet and includes a yoga room.
During our stay, we enjoyed a breakfast and a dinner at Root + Vine, the hotel’s open-kitchen restaurant centering the lobby. Curated by Executive Chef Lindsey Vandentoorn, the menu emphasized locally sourced, mindful consumption.
We drank delicious, freshly squeezed juice blends for breakfast, compliments of their $10,000 juicer. In the evening, we enjoyed unique cocktails.
The hotel’s central location made it the perfect base for our explorations. The museums and monuments of the mall all were within walking distance.
We found the Westin — Washington, DC Downtown to be more than just a place to stay. It was a comfortable and luxurious part of our visit to the nation’s capital.
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Author Bio: Eric D. Goodman is the author of seven books. His most recent, Faraway Tables, is a collection of poems focused on travel and a longing for other places. Learn more about Eric and his writing at www.EricDGoodman.com.
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