Munich is so much more than beerhalls and Oktoberfest. Photo by Canva

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Germany is a land of captivating contrasts, where fairy-tale castles rise amidst dramatic Alpine backdrops, and modern cities hum with life.

Over the years, my wife, Nataliya, and I have been to 19 cities and towns in Germany. Of them all, Munich is our favorite. Munich is at the heart of Bavaria, with its rich cultural tapestry.

Beyond Munich, the enchanting Bavarian countryside offers an amazing backdrop while discovering legendary castles and palaces.

Munich Old Town

Munich's Marienplatz.Munich's Marienplatz.
Munich’s Marienplatz. Photo by Eric D. Goodman

Arriving in Munich, we were greeted by the neo-Renaissance charm of Hauptbahnhof, Munich’s central train station.

The city’s blend of historical and contemporary was immediately evident as we stepped into Marienplatz, the bustling old town square. Dominating the square was the Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall), with its Gothic Revival spires and intricate carvings.

All eyes turned upward as the famed Glockenspiel clock came to life. The 43 bells chimed while life-sized mechanical figures danced, jousted and reenacted 16th-century Bavarian tales.

The spectacle lasted nearly 15 minutes, captivating both locals and tourists as the figurines performed to perfection, their vibrant costumes illuminated by the late morning sun.

“That reminded me of the clock in Prague,” I said.

“Only it lasted a lot longer,” Nataliya pointed out.

Glockenspiel Clock Tower in MarienplatzGlockenspiel Clock Tower in Marienplatz
Glockenspiel Clock Tower in Marienplatz. Photo by Eric D. Goodman

Surrounding us, a mix of Gothic and Renaissance architecture told stories of resilience, with many buildings reconstructed after World War II. Munich’s churches offered spiritual and architectural marvels.

Frauenkirche, with its distinctive onion-domed towers, stood as a symbol of the city. Inside, sunlight filtered through stained-glass windows, creating an ethereal glow.

Nearby, the Asamkirche dazzled us with its Baroque opulence, every corner filled with intricate detail. A quieter beauty awaited at St. Peter’s Church, where a climb up the tower rewarded us with panoramic views of the city and distant Alps.

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Retail Therapy

We strolled along Neuhauser Straße and Kaufingerstraße, indulging in Bavarian retail delights. Nataliya discovered a beautifully embroidered dirndl that paired perfectly with her style. Meanwhile I found a stein adorned with Bavarian crests—a fitting addition to our collection of travel memorabilia. Alex, our teenage son, enjoyed hunting for quirky t-shirts and local souvenirs.

The nearby Viktualienmarkt provided a sensory overload. This bustling outdoor market, with its colorful stalls, tempted us with the scents of freshly baked pretzels, cured meats, and spicy mustard.

We couldn’t resist sampling a freshly grilled bratwurst served in a crusty roll as we wandered past vendors selling everything from handmade crafts to vibrant bouquets of flowers.

The cheerful chatter of shoppers and the melodic calls of vendors created a lively symphony that was uniquely Bavarian.

Read More: Top 10 Things to do in Munich, Germany

The Hofbräuhaus Experience

Inside Hofbrauhous, Munich's most famous beer hallInside Hofbrauhous, Munich's most famous beer hall
Inside Hofbrauhous, Munich’s most famous beer hall. Photo by Eric D. Goodman

No visit to Munich would be complete without its iconic beer halls. At the Hofbräuhaus, established in 1589, we experienced Gemütlichkeit—the warm, friendly Bavarian atmosphere.

The cavernous hall buzzed with laughter and clinking steins, as an oompah band played lively, robust music. Older men in traditional lederhosen pounded out melodies on tubas, accordions and clarinets. Their rhythmic tunes set the tone for the boisterous energy.

Families, friends and travelers sang along to Bavarian folk songs, creating an infectious camaraderie that drew us in.

Beer and bread at HofbraushousBeer and bread at Hofbraushous
Beer and bread at Hofbraushous. Photo by Eric D. Goodman

We found ourselves seated at a communal wooden table with locals who eagerly shared stories about Munich. “Hofbräuhaus is wonderful,” one man said, raising his glass, “but if you want the true local experience, go to Augustiner Keller. Fewer tourists, better beer.”

“Actually, that one isn’t far from our hotel on the outskirts,” Nataliya said.

The conversation flowed as freely as the beer. We learned about hidden corners of the English Garden, lesser-known museums, and the best times to visit Viktualienmarkt.

By the time we left, we felt like honorary Bavarians, toasting to new friends and fresh adventures.

Exploring Egypt in Munich

A statue at Munich's Egyptian MuseumA statue at Munich's Egyptian Museum
A statue at Munich’s Egyptian Museum. Photo by Eric D. Goodman

A visit to the Egyptian Museum in Munich is like stepping into the heart of ancient Egypt. Located near the heart of the city, this museum is home to one of the most comprehensive collections of Egyptian artifacts in Europe.

As we entered, the museum’s grand exhibits immediately drew us into the world of pharaohs, gods and monumental history. The high ceilings and well-lit spaces allowed us to admire intricately detailed sculptures, beautifully preserved mummies and ancient tomb relics.

Among the highlights were the Statue of the Pharaoh Ramses II, a breathtaking representation of the great ruler—also, the stunning Mummy of a Young Woman, whose delicate features have been preserved for millennia.

One room stands out with its collection of sarcophagi and burial objects, each piece shedding light on the rich religious practices of the ancient Egyptians.

The complex symbolism behind the Book of the Dead scrolls on display opens a window into the deep spiritual beliefs that permeated everyday life.

A Mad King’s Happy Places

Neuschwanstein CastleNeuschwanstein Castle
Neuschwanstein Castle. Image from Canva

Our time in Munich included a memorable excursion to Neuschwanstein Castle, a two-hour bus ride into the Bavarian Alps. Approaching this 19th-century masterpiece commissioned by King Ludwig II felt like stepping into a fairy tale.

Its white limestone façade and soaring towers are said to have inspired Walt Disney’s iconic castle. Inside, the ornate rooms paid homage to Ludwig’s love for Wagnerian operas, with murals depicting legendary tales of knights and dragons.

From Neuschwanstein, a short walk led us to Hohenschwangau Castle, Ludwig’s boyhood home. Surrounded by lush greenery and reflective lakes, this neo-Gothic gem offered a glimpse into the young king’s inspirations.

Back in Munich, we continued to immerse ourselves in Bavaria’s royal legacy. A visit to Nymphenburg Palace revealed the opulence of the Bavarian Wittelsbach dynasty. The gilded interiors and manicured gardens were a testament to royal grandeur.

Later, at Linderhof Palace, Ludwig’s intimate retreat inspired by Versailles, we marveled at the ornate décor and the whimsical Venus Grotto. The Grotto is an artificial cave with a lake and is where the king indulged in private performances.

Read More: Road Trip through Bavaria

The Passion Play Village: Oberammergau

Oberammergau GermanyOberammergau Germany
Oberammergau. Image from Canva

Another day trip took us to Oberammergau, a quaint village renowned for its centuries-old Passion Play tradition. The painted façades of its houses, known as “Lüftlmalerei,” depicted religious scenes and fairy tales, adding to the village’s charm.

Over coffee and Apfelstrudel at a local café, we learned about the play’s origins—a vow made during the plague in 1633—and its role in uniting the community every decade.

Although it wasn’t the season for the Passion Play (which we were grateful for given the flocks of tourists that fill these streets during Easter season), we very much enjoyed our quiet time in Oberammergau. We visited the local history museum, picked up some wooden ornaments and nutcrackers in a shop featuring local, handmade crafts and simply enjoyed the scenery.

Munich’s Cultural and Historical Riches

Inside the Munchen Residenz Palace.Inside the Munchen Residenz Palace.
Inside the Munchen Residenz Palace. Image from Canva

Returning to Munich, we dedicated time to its impressive museums. The Alte Pinakothek housed masterpieces from the Middle Ages to the Rococo period, while the Lenbachhaus offered a vibrant collection of modern art, including works by the Blue Rider group.

A surprising highlight was the Deutsches Museum, where Alex enjoyed exploring hands-on exhibits about science and technology. Nearby, the Residenz Museum impressed us with its sprawling halls showcasing treasures from Munich’s royal past, including jeweled crowns and gilded chambers.

One of the most thought-provoking stops was the Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial Site, just outside Munich. The somber exhibits and preserved structures offered a sobering reminder of the atrocities of the Holocaust.

Back in the city, the Holocaust Memorial for the Sinti and Roma of Europe and the moving White Rose Memorial at Ludwig Maximilian University paid tribute to those who resisted and suffered under Nazi rule.

A woman sells gingerbread cookies to diners at an outdoor cafeA woman sells gingerbread cookies to diners at an outdoor cafe
A woman sells gingerbread cookies to diners at an outdoor cafe. Photo by Eric D. Goodman

Munich’s culinary scene offered a delightful mix of tradition and innovation. At Viktualienmarkt, the city’s bustling food market, we sampled pretzels, sausages and local cheeses.

A hidden gem was the Schneider Bräuhaus, where we enjoyed weisswurst, served with sweet mustard and freshly baked pretzels.

Evenings in Munich were magical. We found ourselves wandering through the English Garden, watching locals surf the Eisbach’s standing wave and enjoying the golden hues of the setting sun.

The Chinese Tower beer garden provided a relaxing spot to end the day with a stein in hand and live Bavarian music filling the air.

Read More: Experience Another Kind of Oktoberfest: Cannstatter Volksfest

Another Day, Another Beer Hall

Inside Augustiner Keller, another Munich beer hall.Inside Augustiner Keller, another Munich beer hall.
Inside Augustiner Keller, another Munich beer hall. Photo by Eric D. Goodman

On our final day, we followed the advice of our Hofbräuhaus friends and walked to Augustiner Keller. Tucked away from the tourist crowds, the beer hall exuded a distinctly local charm. Instead of music, the air was filled with the sound of hearty laughter and lively conversation.

In the lively beer hall, we joined families and students and groups of friends sharing stories over Augustiner Helles, Dunkel, Bock and Edelstoff. The beer was accented by generous plates of schnitzel, spätzle and roasted pork.

The absence of music allowed us to focus on the joyous din of clinking glasses and the hum of contented diners.

Later, we retraced our steps through Marienplatz, soaking in the vibrant energy of the old town. The Glockenspiel’s familiar chimes once again captivated the crowds as we lingered in the square. Strolling through the pedestrian streets, we revisited our favorite sites and admired the beautifully preserved architecture.

As the sun set on our Munich adventure, we reflected on the city’s ability to seamlessly blend tradition and modernity. From its fairy-tale castles to its lively beer halls, Munich offers the best of Germany’s charm.

If You Go

Getting There: Fly into Munich International Airport (MUC), a major European hub with excellent connections. View flight deals here.

Accommodations: We stayed at a cozy hotel on the city’s outskirts, offering easy access to both Munich’s attractions and the Bavarian countryside. A long walk or short train ride into the city, staying in the outskirts is less expensive and a bit quieter. View accommodation options here.

Day Trips: Buses and trains make day trips to Neuschwanstein, Oberammergau and other castles seamless. Booking tickets in advance is recommended, especially for Neuschwanstein.

Dining: Don’t miss traditional Bavarian dishes like schnitzel, spätzle, weisswurst and apple strudel paired with local beers. There are markets and plenty of restaurants. Our favorite place to eat was in beer halls and beer gardens, where the atmosphere was as filling as the food.

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Eric D. Goodman is author of seven books, including Faraway Tables (Yorkshire Publishing, 2024), Wrecks and Ruins (Loyola University’s Apprentice House Press, 2022), The Color of Jadeite (Apprentice House, 2020), Setting the Family Free (Apprentice House, 2019), Womb: a novel in utero (Merge Publishing, 2017), Tracks: A Novel in Stories (Atticus Books, 2011), and Flightless Goose (Writer’s Lair, 2008) and more than 100 published travel stories, short stories and articles. He’s also co-founder and curator of the Lit and Art Reading Series, Baltimore’s longest-running literary salon, and BrickHouse Books, Maryland’s oldest independent press. You can learn more about Eric and his writing at www.EricDGoodman.com.

Eric D. GoodmanEric D. Goodman
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