An Alternative Guide to the City of Light

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It’s 19:30 and I’m sitting in a Parisian hotel room with my two friends. The day has been fun but long. And now we feel less like Emily in Paris and more like Oscar the Grouch because we need some food. Heads down, we scroll through our notes, searching for a place to eat.

In preparation for this mini weekend trip, we’ve watched what feels like a million and one Instagram videos recommending ’30 foodie Parisian hotspots’ or the like. Despite all this information, we’re still stumped about where to go. How many of these ‘amazing’ places on social media were actually amazing?

Before I went to Paris, I really wanted a recommendation from a friend (not an influencer.) Unfortunately, aside from one or two suggestions, I didn’t find anyone gasping with excitement to share their not-to-miss restaurants and hidden Parisian gems. Neither did I read about Paris tourist spots that are worth a trip. Nor did I receive advice on making the most of the city.

Therefore, when we arrived in Paris, we trod our own path, coming back with tips and highlights I couldn’t wait to share with friends.

The Eiffel Tower

No visit to Paris would be complete without a trip to the Eiffel Tower. Apparently, the view from the top is lovely, and there’s even a remake of architect Gustave Eiffel’s study near the top (talk about a creative workspace).

However, there are cheaper views to enjoy in the City of Light (keep reading for details.) Foregoing the views, you can still have a wonderful Eiffel experience without travelling to its top.

On a hot summer’s day, the Champ de Mars (the field in front of the Eiffel Tower) is a wonderful space for sunbathing. Among relaxed, happy and chatty crowds of friends and family, it’s a peaceful yet lively place to spend an afternoon socialising and enjoying the view of the beautiful and impressive Eiffel.

However, beautiful has not always been used to describe this structure. In the 19th century, Parisians’ first reaction to the Eiffel Tower was that it was ugly. It only remained in place thanks to its function as a wireless support antenna for broadcasts.

A word to the wise: if you do spend some time here, be wary of street food vendors in this area. In 2023, Business Insider reported that some sellers were storing ingredients in manholes by the Champ de Mars.

Sacre Coeur

About an hour away in Paris’ 18th arrondissement is Sacre Coeur. This 19th-century Catholic Basilica (a church designated with special privileges by the pope) and Parisian tourist site is worth the hype for more than one reason.

Those who appreciate a story will be fascinated by its history mired by revolutionary politics. Philanthropist Alexandre Legentil conceptualised the church in a letter to the Bishop of Poitiers following France’s defeat by Prussia in 1870.

However, the church’s founding story has been clouded by popular theories. One suggests its conception was atonement for the murder of dozens under the short-lived rule of the revolutionary Paris Commune government of 1871. This is possibly due to murders that happened just outside Sacre Coeur’s site in March of that year before the church’s actual construction in 1875.

As incorrect as these links are, the church’s roots in revolutionary France are fascinating. They are also key to understanding the remaining resentment of the church amongst those who see it as an insult to the memory of the Paris Commune.

Sacre Coeur’s revolutionary history is just one reason the landmark remains a point of interest for millions of visitors annually. Its religious function is another.

Despite being a popular tourist site, Sacre Coeur is still an active church, remaining true to its religious roots. It was funded by a national subscription organised by the Catholic Church.

In addition to holding regular religious services, the basilica is known as a place of perpetual adoration. For over 100 years, uninterrupted prayer in adoration of the Holy Sacrament has taken place at Sacre Coeur day and night. Prayers even remained uninterrupted during the pandemic and the 1944 bombing of the church.

An Alternate View of Paris

For my friends and I, however, our quick trip to Sacre Coeur was all about seeing its views, often described as some of the best in the city. Visitors can look out from the Church’s dome (the highest point in the city after the Eiffel Tower) for about seven euros.

But if you’re cutting costs or don’t feel like a 300-step climb to the top, Paris’ sprawling beauty is visible from the steps of Square Louise-Michel, just outside of the church. My friends and I took the second option. We saw Notre Dame, the Eiffel Tower, the Panthéon and everything in between.

Taking in such a panoramic view of Paris’ sprawling beauty, we did not feel that we’d missed out on any marketed lookout spots offered and would recommend it as a viable option for some of the best views of Paris. C’est merveilleux (marvellous,) as they say in France, and completely free.

Read More: Top 20 Things to See and Do in Paris

Paris Tips for Wanderers 

The walk to/from Sacre Coeur through the village of Montmartre is also the perfect chance for a ramble. Full of stereotypical Parisian cafes and independent shops selling posters, trinkets, furniture and more, Montmartre’s innumerable boutiques, bakeries, museums and sites are ideal for aimless wanderers.

The I Love You Wall (Le Mur des Je T’aime) created by Frédéric Baron and Claire Kito in 2000 is one particularly popular site. Found in Jehan Rictus Square, it’s a monument to eternal adoration, with ‘I Love You’ written across it in 250 different languages.

Unsurprisingly, this work of free-to-visit art is a great photo backdrop and is surrounded by Instagram-obsessed tourists. In fact, Montmartre is just the destination your Instagram-loving friend looking for some snappable moments would love.

Another excellent place for an outdoorsy mooch is le Marais. Many people visit this area for the modern art museum, Centre Pompidou. However, do take the chance to wander its backstreets full of bakeries and patisseries (my gluten-free friend also found a heap of eateries that catered to her needs.)

For me, the boutique shops were the best part of these back streets. Soi, a vibrant boutique founded by two sisters, offers a range of vibrant, colourful outfits with handcrafted prints.

In the opposite direction, Art Du Basique, full of clothing in très simple styles, will fulfil your need for quality basics.

Finding Nature in Paris

We also found some more natural outdoorsy fun: the Jardin des Tuileries and Jardin du Luxembourg. Full of impeccably groomed hedges and the occasional yellow-stoned mansion, walking in these parks felt like stepping into your favourite period drama.

After one particularly long hot day, there was nothing more satisfying than relaxing by le Grand Bassin (a pond in the Jardin du Luxembourg.) Here, I enjoyed the sun with my feet over the side of one of the free-to-use seats. Luckily, I wasn’t really living in a period drama and curtailed by excessive social restrictions.

A Delicious Meal in Saint Germain

Of course, before I finish, I must tell you about Le Monteverdi, the great restaurant which quelled our aforementioned hanger.

We walked into this green-carpeted restaurant to find people struggling to get a table, which is always a good sign. It was packed with everyone from 20-year-olds celebrating a birthday to elderly couples dining out. Its classic yet not stuffy vibe and menu offer something for all types of eaters, giving it a broad and timeless appeal.

After tasting the delicious food, we even better understood why Le Monteverdi was impenetrable to the whims of trends. Guests of all ages poured into this lively yet discreet space in Saint-Germain-Des-Prés.

A visit to Le Monteverdi is also a great chance to roam around Saint Germain’s multitude of bars, eateries and cultural spots. These include galleries dedicated to Maillol and Eugene Delacroix and the former haunts of some of Paris’ well-known thinkers (Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir.)

World-famous Café de Flore and Les Deux Magots are some of the main attractions for those keen to follow the path of great thinkers. It is also a good area for those wishing to visit filming locations and places mentioned in the wonderful Emily in Paris.

Read More: When is the Best Time to Visit Paris?

Au Revoir

These are just some of the stand-out places and experiences from my short weekend in Paris. With only a few days in France’s capital, unsurprisingly, my friends and I didn’t see half of the fantastic sites or discover the many hidden secrets of this great city. Nor did we try nearly all its endless delicacies or visit even a fraction of its chic shops.

Although Paris has been hyped about a lot over the years, like any great city, it is still full of surprises. Maybe it’s an inconspicuous bookshop with limited editions of French classics waiting to be read. Or a restaurant tucked away in a backstreet that serves up the most comforting croque-monsieur. Who knows?

Hidden Paris is waiting to be found, tucked away down unexpected roads, in the minds of locals and on Google Maps. So, make sure to stretch your legs and stay aware to find those unknown gasp-inducing places you can’t wait to share with your friends.

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Author Bio: Catherine McColgan is a freelance travel writer who loves finding new, adventurous and exciting places to write about. She has written for multiple publications and was a three-time runner-up in the Telegraph on Saturday’s Your Say travel writing competition. Find her online at www.catherinemccolgan.co.uk and on Instagram @Catherinemcc01