Kathy & Frank Hosek reach the summit of Gorham Mountain. Photo by Kathy Hosek

I stood as close to Champlain Mountain’s granite cliffside in Acadia National Park as I could bodily squeeze myself. My left hand grasped the ancient iron rung embedded in its stony flank while my toes tried to grip the narrow trail through the soles of my shoes. Meanwhile, I fumbled for my camera with my right hand.

While trying to take a picture one-handed without losing my handhold or the camera, I noticed the iron rungs at my feet, defining the very edge of the bluff. I couldn’t help but wonder if they were meant to be one final hand-hold before you slid over the side into nothingness.

Climbing the Precipice Trail in Acadia National Park

The Precipice trail clings precariously to the side of Champlain MountainThe Precipice trail clings precariously to the side of Champlain Mountain
The Precipice trail clings precariously to the side of Champlain Mountain. Photo by Frank Hosek

The Precipice Trail is Acadia National Park’s most famed hiking route. It allows adventuresome souls to scale the rugged cliffside of Champlain Mountain by way of a very challenging route. 

Not only will you be scrambling over and through rocky boulders the size of a Volkswagen Beetle, but you will also climb up sheer rock walls using these very same iron rungs. In addition, you walk across narrow granite cliffside ledges with some significant exposure, all the while gaining 1,000 feet of elevation in less than a mile.

I found myself in this precarious position because of an innocent question the previous day. We had stopped at the Hulls Cove Visitor Center to purchase a seven-day vehicle pass for Acadia National Park.

After hearing about the “dangerous” Precipice Trail, I asked a ranger how difficult it could really be. His reply was, “We’ve had to rescue several hikers who fell, and I don’t recommend it for inexperienced hikers.”

The intimidating Precipice Trail with its wavy iron railings follows the ledges of Champlain MountainThe intimidating Precipice Trail with its wavy iron railings follows the ledges of Champlain Mountain
The intimidating Precipice Trail, with its wavy iron railings, follows the ledges of Champlain Mountain.
Photo by Frank Hosek

Blame it on a milestone birthday, a certain amount of hubris and an almost childlike acceptance of a perceived dare. Whatever it was I informed my wife that I intended to hike the trail as we exited the Visitor Center.

I arose early the following morning with feigned enthusiasm. With a backpack full of necessities, such as water, protein bars, a first-aid kit, etc., I headed off as my very patient wife shook her head and wished me luck.

At the trailhead on Park Loop Road, I met two other early risers, a man and his wife, and fell in (a poor choice of words) with them.

The Real Challenge Begins

Iron rungs can be found everywhere on the Precipice Trail that go straight up the cliffIron rungs can be found everywhere on the Precipice Trail that go straight up the cliff
Iron rungs can be found everywhere on the Precipice Trail that goes straight up the cliff. Photo by Frank Hosek

Here is where the real fun began. The trail started at the forested base of the cliff, forcing us to scramble over a field of oversized boulders that appeared to have been purposely placed there by the Jolly Green Giant.

Eventually, we reached the first of several sections that required climbing hand over foot utilizing the aforementioned iron rungs. Throw in a few iron ladders and handrails that go straight up the cliff with sheer drop-offs on either side and you get a sense of the difficulty.

However, the views truly became incredible as we walked the first set of cliff ledges high above the comfort of the shoreline below. I stopped several times to embrace the vision that spread out before and below us.

Stopping to enjoy the surroundings was mandatory. I simply could not take my eyes off the trail with any surety without stopping.

Eventually, after one final set of rung ladders, we were standing on top of the Precipice and the final ascent to the summit was a simple uphill hike.

At the summit of Champlain Mountain, while we marveled at the views, we exchanged congratulations and shared picture-taking duties to document the completion of our trek.

Acadia’s Affluent Benefactors

Point of view of Sand Beach from atop of Gorham Mountain in Acadia National Park in MainePoint of view of Sand Beach from atop of Gorham Mountain in Acadia National Park in Maine
Point of view of Sand Beach from atop Gorham Mountain in Acadia National Park in Maine. Photo by Kathy Hosek

Acadia National Park is the only national park in New England and the oldest national park east of the Mississippi. It encompasses approximately 47,000 acres in three main areas.

The largest area is located on Mount Desert Island, home to Champlain Mountain. Wealthy vacationers like the Fords, Astors, Vanderbilts, Pulitzers and Rockefellers came to the island for the fresh air and the cooler temperatures in the summer, escaping the noise and frenzy of city life.

Although they referred to the summer homes they built as “cottages,” in reality, they were more like mansions, transforming the island’s quiet villages into 19th-century tourist hotspots.

However, as more and more people flocked to the island to enjoy its natural beauty and bounties, the roads became crowded with their newfangled motorcars. The very same wealthy visitors who had promoted the island began to despair of its popularity.

While it can be argued that Mount Desert had already been compromised with the arrival of the wealthy and their massive homes, they didn’t want to see further ruin through mass overuse.

So, in 1901, a handful of wealthy philanthropists worked together to acquire and present 5,000 acres of donated land to the federal government for use as a national park.

Rockefeller’s Contribution

Acadia is blanketed with coastal forests and mountain woodlandsAcadia is blanketed with coastal forests and mountain woodlands
Acadia is blanketed with coastal forests and mountain woodlands. Photo by Frank Hosek

Of all the philanthropists who contributed to the park, none stands out like millionaire financier John D. Rockefeller, Jr., who first visited Mount Desert in 1893 and built what became a 100-room mansion. 

Not only did Rockefeller donate an additional 10,000 acres, more land than anyone else, but he also created 45 miles of carriage roads that would traverse the interior of the island but forever be closed to automobiles.

Acadia draws millions of visitors each year with its extensive hiking and biking trails, a 27-mile scenic drive, rugged beaches and a rich history.

The waves of the Atlantic Ocean crash against a rocky shore beneath primeval granite mountains that rise high above a coastline. The coast is broken by coves, a cavernous fjord and a deep-water bay. Rocky mounts rounded by the ages and ringed with forests give way here and there to meadows or peaceful ponds.

We had finally made it to this magical meeting place of land and sea for a midweek exploration of Maine‘s crown jewel and one of the most scenic coastal spots along the entire eastern seaboard of the United States.

Discover Acadia on Park Loop Road

The many Overlooks on Park Loop Road in Acadia National Park can draw a crowdThe many Overlooks on Park Loop Road in Acadia National Park can draw a crowd
The many overlooks on Park Loop Road in Acadia National Park can draw a crowd. Photo by Frank Hosek

Hiking opportunities at Acadia are seemingly endless, with more than 150 miles of trails and two dozen peaks. Some are undoubtedly quite strenuous, while others provide a leisurely opportunity to discover the park’s beauty.

If you only have a day to visit the park, Loop Road is a must. The Loop Road provides access to scenic overlooks and a variety of trails from the easiest to the most difficult.

The 27-mile road is the heart of Acadia National Park and can be traveled by car, bicycle or the free Island Explorer bus.

The Park Loop Road weaves its way along the shoreline.The Park Loop Road weaves its way along the shoreline.
The Park Loop Road weaves its way along the shoreline. Photo by Frank Hosek

After my fateful conversation with the ranger at Hulls Cove Visitor Center, we headed out with our pass onto Park Loop Road. The road loops around the eastern half of Acadia on Mount Desert Island.

The drive winds through forests, mountains and along shorelines. You could, I suppose, do the route in roughly an hour and a half if you don’t tarry. But definitely tarry. Take in the sights, the splendor and the serenity, it’s well worth a day if not more.

Accommodations Near Acadia National Park

Reservations to Visit Cadillac Mountain

Hikers watch the sunrise from Cadillac MountainHikers watch the sunrise from Cadillac Mountain
Hikers watch the sunrise from Cadillac Mountain. Photo by Kirsten-Drew via unsplash

At 1530’, Cadillac Mountain is Acadia’s highest point, making its rocky summit one of the park’s most popular and panoramic viewpoints. However, that very popularity requires some pre-planning if you wish to explore it.

The National Park Service has implemented a reservation system to lessen traffic on the three-mile road to the summit, which we were not aware of. So, if your plans include reaching the top of Cadillac, plan ahead and secure a time slot in the online booking portal as soon as reservations open for your date.

Cadillac is famous as the first place in the US to see the sunrise and early risers flock to the summit to catch the sun’s first rays year-round. Although sunrise is the biggest draw, Cadillac’s 360-degree views are unmatched throughout the day.

Walking Sand Beach

Visitors enjoy the warm sands and cold Atlantic waters of Sand Beach, the only beach in Acadia National ParkVisitors enjoy the warm sands and cold Atlantic waters of Sand Beach, the only beach in Acadia National Park
Visitors enjoy the warm sands and cold Atlantic waters of Sand Beach, the only beach in Acadia National Park. Photo by Frank Hosek

A sandy beach is rare along the rocky coastline of Mount Desert Island, making Sand Beach a popular place to get some sun or take a plunge if you dare. After parking our car, I slipped my shoes off and dipped my toes into the blue ocean. I can tell you that the waters of the Atlantic are quite cold. 

Surrounded by cliffs, this small stretch of coast is the largest sandy beach in Acadia. The beach is chiefly comprised of shell fragments created by the pounding surf. As we lingered, the waterline began to recede as low tide added to the beach.

The beach was active, but no one dared the chilly waters to swim.

Getting Wet at Thunder Hole

Waves crash against the granite walls of Thunder Hole sending spray skyward.Waves crash against the granite walls of Thunder Hole sending spray skyward.
Waves crash against the granite walls of Thunder Hole, sending spray skyward. Photo by Frank Hosek

From Sand Beach, we took the Ocean Path, a well-maintained, easy-going trail that hugs the coast and provides exceptional views. Our goal, approximately a mile from the beach, was Thunder Hole.

Based on the crowds, Thunder Hole is one of the more popular spots in the park. The ocean’s power carved out an inlet into the rocky eastern shoreline, creating a spectacular event if you’re lucky.

When a wave hits a small cavern at the bottom of the inlet, air and water are forced out, resulting in a sound much like a clap of thunder.

You can stay on the path or be a little more adventuresome and hike to the source, as we did. Granite stairs took us down to the viewing area that hugged the inlet. When conditions are right, we were told that the waves can reach up to 40 feet high, making for a breathtaking event.

During our visit, the spray reached half that height. High enough, I might add, to drench this unwary visitor.

Hiking Gorham Mountain

The Gorham Mountain trail strewn with colorful leaves makes a gentle ascent up the pink granite mountainThe Gorham Mountain trail strewn with colorful leaves makes a gentle ascent up the pink granite mountain
The Gorham Mountain trail strewn with colorful leaves makes a gentle ascent up the pink granite mountain. Photo by Frank Hosek

Afterward, we sought out the Gorham Mountain trail. Kathy wanted to hike a mountain that wasn’t as formidable as Champlain and its Precipice trail. We were told that Gorham was perfect.

We stepped upon a path carpeted with the fiery scarlet leaves of the Red Maples that lined the trail. Gorham Mountain’s 525′ elevation makes it one of the lower peaks in the park. Its relatively modest elevation gain made for an easy hike.

The trail gently ascends the pink granite mountain. Even the few sets of carved steps were easily traversed. Despite the ease of the hike, we found the trail quiet with few fellow hikers.

Once we trekked above the forest line, we were rewarded with delightful views from the summit of Sand Beach and the surrounding area.

Acadia National Park Tours and Tickets

Relaxing at Jordan Pond

The shore of Jordan Pond provides iconic views of steep, glacially sculpted mountains and the mirror-like watersThe shore of Jordan Pond provides iconic views of steep, glacially sculpted mountains and the mirror-like waters
The shore of Jordan Pond provides iconic views of steep, glacially sculpted mountains and the mirror-like waters. Photo by Frank Hosek

It was well into the afternoon when we realized we had yet to eat and decided to look for a quiet spot to eat our picnic lunch.

We discovered Jordan Pond, one of the park’s most pristine lakes. Glaciers carved the landscape and left behind a glacial lake that’s 150 feet deep and covers 187 acres. Why it’s called a pond and not a lake is beyond me.

What I do know is that wondrous reflective waters and the views of the Bubbles, twin mountains at the north end of the lake, provided a most pleasing backdrop for our late-day repast.

If there is a more idyllic spot in Acadia, we never found it. Jordan Pond, with its untouched, tranquil waters surrounded by lush, majestic mountains in all directions and grassy shorelines, was a perfect setting for our reflective break.

One of the plentiful White-tailed deer in Acadia joined us for lunchOne of the plentiful White-tailed deer in Acadia joined us for lunch
One of the plentiful White-tailed deer in Acadia joined us for lunch. Photo by Frank Hosek

Throw in a curious deer who watched us for several moments, and the day was beyond memorable.

Panoramic views of the sparkling Atlantic waters, forested mountains, miles of entertaining trails and picturesque rocky shorelines made for our gorgeous introduction to Maine’s Acadia National Park.

Hikers enjoying the majestic views from atop of Gorham MountainHikers enjoying the majestic views from atop of Gorham Mountain
Hikers enjoying the majestic views from atop Gorham Mountain. Photo by Kathy Hosek

If you go:

  • At 4 million visits a year, it’s one of the top 10 most-visited national parks in the United States. Visitors enjoy 27 miles of historic motor roads, 158 miles of hiking trails and 45 miles of carriage roads.
  • From Portland, Maine, it is approximately a 3-hour drive via I-95
  • Acadia National Park

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Frank HosekFrank Hosek

Frank Hosek is an Illinois-based Director of Human Resources who relishes traveling with his wife, Kathy.He enjoys discovering new experiences, meeting the people that make those experiences memorable, and sharing their adventures with others. He has written for Go World Travel Magazine, The Daily Journal, News Gazette and Lifestyles magazine. Frank has won awards from IWPA for his travel writing. He looks toward the horizon for the next adventure.

Frank HosekFrank Hosek
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