I’ve traveled all over Austria and thought I had seen its most beautiful corners, from postcard-perfect alpine villages to the stately capital of Vienna.
Then, I arrived in Southern Styria and discovered a whole new side of this central European country. In fact, I wondered why it had taken me so long to get here.
What and Where Is Southern Styria? (Südsteiermark)
Southern Styria or South Styria is the English name for the Austrian region, Südsteiermark. It’s part of the Austrian province of Steiermark, just a 45-minute ride from Graz, Austria’s second-largest city. It stretches along the Austrian-Slovenian border.
Südsteiermark is well-known to Germans and Austrians—in fact, it’s a popular destination for long weekend getaways—but it’s little known to North Americans. Why is that? I’m not sure, but I know it’s well worth visiting.
My friend Nicole and I arrived in Südsteiermark after a four-hour train trip from Vienna. (Trains are an excellent way to travel in Austria.) When I first saw Southern Styria, it reminded me of the rolling hills of Tuscany.
“No, we don’t like to be compared to Tuscany,” one local told me. And sure, I get it. Southern Styria is so much more.
Yes, it has rolling hills covered in vineyards, but it also has apple, pear, fig and other orchards and acres and acres of rich farmland, perfect for producing pumpkin (for pumpkin seed oil) and many other crops. It has a mild climate much different than the rest of Austria with warm days, cool nights and more rainfall.
The region has rivers and forests and miles and miles of good hiking. Most of all, it has small villages and towns filled with hard-working people who proudly produce memorable, top-quality products and produce. Most establishments, whether hotels, farms, restaurants, or wineries, have been family-owned for generations.
Vineyards are harvested by hand here, as machinery can’t be used on the steep hills. Many wineries produce organic wines. Sauvignon Blanc and Schilcher are the leading varieties, but Pinot Blanc, Welschriesling, Morillon, Traminer, Muskateller, Riesling, and Zweigelt are also produced in Südsteiermark
Perhaps you are asking, “Then why haven’t I heard about Austrian wines?”
What to Know About Austrian Wines
Austrian wines, though exceptional, often fly under the radar due to their relatively small production scale and limited export presence compared to major wine regions.
With around 3,383 hectares of vineyards in South Styria alone and a national focus on sustainable, high-quality wine rather than mass production, Austrian wines are primarily consumed domestically or in European markets.
This means that unless you’re actively exploring or in regions close to Austria, these wines can be surprisingly hard to come by.
Popular Austrian Wines
Austria is also best known for its white wines, like Grüner Veltliner and Sauvignon Blanc, which, while highly regarded, haven’t yet achieved the same global recognition as some Old World reds.
However, Austrian wines are gaining more attention in recent years, especially among those seeking unique wines with distinctive terroir and character. The wines’ limited availability outside Europe has only increased their appeal, making them a hidden gem for those eager to discover something new and distinctly Austrian.
This is all the more reason to plan a trip to Southern Styria, especially if you’re a wine lover.
Following the Wine Trails
With more than 385 wineries, there is a lot of wine country to explore here. Southern Styria makes it easy to visit wineries and learn more about their wines. They have organized three distinct wine trails for guests to follow.
- Southern Styrian Wine Road: This historic route celebrates its 70th anniversary in 2025. Starting in Ehrenhausen, the 25.5 km path is known for its limestone and marl-rich soil, contributing to the wines’ character.
- Sausal Wine Road: Renowned for steep vineyards and mineral-rich schist soils, this 25 km route through the Sulmtal Valley produces wines with a signature salty flavor. The Sausal vineyards are about 100 meters higher than the rest of South Styria, making this one of the steepest wine-growing regions in Europe. This elevation and steepness set Sausal apart, creating ideal conditions for producing wines with distinctive mineral complexity and remarkable intensity.
- Schilcher Wine Road: Stretching 74 km, this road is known for the Blauer Wildbacher grape, which is used to create the rosé-colored Schilcher wine, a regional icon with flavors of currant, wild strawberry, and bell pepper.
Nicole and I had three days to explore Southern Styria. Our time here provided an immersion into the Styrian way of life, from visiting rustic taverns to hillside vineyards, ancient castles, and family-owned shops.
Here’s a look at all we experienced on a three-day visit to Southern Styria.
Day 1: Exploring the South Styrian Wine Road and Hiking Trails
Our base was the Hotel Weinlandhof in the small town of Gamlitz, a town of 3,000 residents that embodies the region’s unpretentious yet sophisticated vibe. From there, we could easily walk to restaurants and shops. One popular guest experience is a leisurely hike up the “Rebkogel” to have a picnic in the vineyards of a local wine tavern called Tinnauer.
If you’re into hiking, the region has many well-marked trails. The local tourism office says that the point isn’t just about moving from one point to another; it’s about soaking in the “Paths to Pleasure,” where each rest stop along the trail offers a chance to enjoy the region’s delicacies or take in stunning views of vineyards and distant mountains.
The Hartlieb Oil Press presses many different kinds of nuts.
Thomas Hartlieb is the fourth generation in this family-run business.
Pumpkin seed oil is green and very thick.
Austrian Pumpkin Seed Oil at Ölmühle Hartlieb
One of those regional delicacies is pumpkin seed oil. I had tasted their famous pumpkin seed oil once before and loved it, so I was curious to learn more about where it was produced.
That afternoon, we visited Ölmühle Hartlieb, a family-run business where pumpkin seed oil is produced using age-old techniques passed down through generations.
Thomas Hartleib, who showed us their oil press, is the fourth generation to run his family business. Then, he allowed us to sample the pumpkin seed oil, and I understood why it was so popular.
Known as Styria’s “green gold,” this rich oil is a cornerstone of Styrian cuisine and is used in everything from salads to pumpkin soups.
What to Know About Austrian Pumpkin Seed Oil
Pumpkin seed oil is dark green in color and thick in consistency. It is produced from a special type of pumpkin that has seeds without a shell. The pumpkins are harvested and crushed, and the seeds are collected right in the fields.
The oil is then pressed at Hartlieb, where the dedication to quality is apparent. Along with pumpkin seeds, they press oils from unique seeds like pine nuts and pistachios, each with a distinct flavor that speaks to the family’s commitment to craftsmanship.
Since 1996, Styrian pumpkin seed oil has had a special P.G.I. (protected geographical indication) label. To use this P.G.I. label, the oil mill must be in Styria, the producers must be Styrian, and the pumpkins must be grown without using pesticides, herbicides, or any other chemical or synthetic fertilizers.
All this adds up to a very special product. Unfortunately for the rest of the world, Austria consumes most of the pumpkin seed oil it produces, although I’m told there are a few sources where I can buy it in the States, where I’m from.
For now, I had to be content with purchasing several carefully wrapped bottles to take back home.
Day 2: E-Biking and Culinary Crafts
One of the best ways to explore the region is by e-bike. The next morning, Nicole and I were up early to meet biking guide Joachim Ruhri, who owns Rent an eBike in Southern Styria. As he spread a map of the region across the table and showed us our route for the day, it was easy to join his cheer and enthusiasm for the ride.
It turned out to be an incredible journey. Thank God it was an e-bike because our route went up, over, and through the hills. We rode past vineyards and through farm fields of sunflowers, hemp, and more. I soaked in deep gulps of fresh air as we rode through the forest and along a river. The sky was a deep blue, and the air had just a tiny chill that wore off by noon.
After a few hours of sheer fun, we pulled to the side of the road.
“There’s just one more push ahead,” Joachim told us, pointing in the distance. I saw a huge castle on a stately hill overlooking the vineyards.
Burg Deutschlandsberg
The castle was our destination, and best of all, it was our location for lunch.
Burg Deutschlandsberg, or the Fortress of Deutschlandsberg as it’s called in English, is everything you picture when it comes to grand historic castles. It is now a hotel, museum and restaurant.
Dining in a castle is lovely, especially with a wide view of vineyard-covered hills. The food was excellent. Chef de Cuisine, Karl Christian Kollmann, is known for his special Austrian and international creations.
Wunsum Bio-Lavendelmanufaktur
After lunch, Nicole and I wanted to visit several other local producers. Our next stop was a visit to the Wunsum Bio-Lavendelmanufaktur in Kitzeck, a small organic lavender farm that boasts the largest lavender cultivation area in Austria.
Here, the Wunsum family has turned lavender into everything from soaps and teas to unusual items like lavender vinegar and liqueurs. Walking through rows of fragrant purple, we learned how lavender’s calming properties are harnessed and crafted into each product, offering a sensory experience far beyond its delightful scent.
Since lavender is one of my favorite fragrances, I was delighted with their selection. I came home with lavender syrup (perfect for lemonade and lavender and vodka cocktails) and several lotions.
Bio-Hofkäserei Deutschmann
Our final stop brought us to Bio-Hofkäserei Deutschmann, a local cheese maker committed to organic farming methods. The cheese dairy is owned by Franz and Gertud Deutschmann, who have run their organic farm cheese dairy for 30 years.
Back then, the words organic and sustainable didn’t mean much, but Franz did pioneering work as a specialist for organic raw milk cheese in Austria.
After sampling several of their available cheeses, I quickly saw that cheese-making is an art as much as a science. We learned all about their process and saw wheels of cheese maturing in cool, dark cellars, filling the air with a rich, earthy aroma.
A tasting session revealed a variety of cheeses, each offering a different texture and flavor profile. One of my favorite cheeses was their Bio Rote Traube, a young, ripened cheese soaked in organic Zweigelt, an Austrian red wine. It creates a lovely rind and gives the cheese a unique flavor.
Day 3: Wine Tasting at NeueHeimat
No trip to South Styria would have been complete without a day dedicated to its acclaimed wines.
While exploring the wine region, we visited NeueHeimat Winery (Weingut Neue Heimat in German).
The winery is modern and classy, set atop a hill overlooking the vineyards. We were met by Bastian Kaltenböck, a former Austrian ski jumper who has since turned his ambitions to winemaking.
We were eager to sample their organic wines, but we wanted to learn their story even more. After a look at the winery, we headed outside for a tasting. As the sun began to set, we sat and enjoyed the view, sampling several excellent Sauvignon Blanc, Muskateller and others while Bastien shared their story.
Neue Heimat was started in 2009 by Dutchman Ton Goedmakers and Uli Kaltenböck, a Styrian local. They had met at a hotel bar in Lech am Arlberg in the 1990s and became friends. They dreamed of creating a different kind of winery, which was fulfilled in 2015.
When Uli Kaltenböck retired, his son Bastian took over. Together with cellar master Christian Söll and their skilled team, they have taken their biodynamic wines to new heights.
In a region where most wineries have been family-run for generations, NeueHeimat is something different. Their name means new home, and their tight team has come together from different walks of life to create a new family, Bastien said.
Their efforts, it seems, have created something very special.
What is a Buschenschank?
Our time in Southern Styria was growing to a close, but we had one more place we wanted to visit. We wanted to visit a Buschenshank.
A Buschenschank is a wine tavern, but it’s different from Vienna’s famous Heurigen (wine taverns) in that it only serves cold foods that are traditional to the region.
In recent years, the menus at Buschenschänke have also included more creative creations and vegetarian and vegan snacks, with the ever-present focus on regionality and seasonality. In season, you can be sure you’ll dine on wild garlic, asparagus, or chanterelle.
The wines served must be grown and produced by the owner. There are more than 100 Buschenschänke in Southern Styria.
Weingut und Buschenschank Hack-Gebell
We chose to visit Weingut und Buschenschank Hack-Gebell, a cozy wine tavern housed in a 360-year-old winemaker’s house in Gamlitz on the South Styrian Wine Trail.
We could see this was a local favorite, and I understood why when we met Brigitte Hack. She and her husband, Philip, own the winery and Buschenshank. They are the fifth generation in this family-run business. They even have a bed and breakfast onsite with 11 cozy guest rooms.
At Buschenschank Hack-Gebell, we tried the traditional Brettljause, a hearty platter of meats, cheeses, and spreads served on a wooden board. Briggitte makes all the cold meat herself, a skill she learned from her mother.
Paired with Hack-Gebell’s own wines, it was a quintessential Styrian meal that reflected the region’s emphasis on simple, high-quality ingredients.
Brigitte kept busy serving and preparing dishes, but she stopped to chat when she had time. “For our food, we only work with farmers who really care for their animals. I visit the farms and make sure the animals are well cared for.”
The dishes are all prepared fresh. “Yes, it’s hard work,” she says, “but I like it. This is my home, and we follow local traditions. I can be with my kids, and we have lovely guests.”
As the evening wound down and we prepared to leave, I realized that part of the joy of our trip to Southern Styria was tasting good food and wine made from generations of tradition. But even better was meeting the talented people who produced and prepared it.
We enjoyed our stay at Hotel Weinlandhof Gamlitz. Run by a local family, the Weinlandhof is ideally located for exploring the nearby wine routes. After hiking or biking, the hotel’s spa and wellness facilities provide much-welcome relaxation.
We had spacious rooms and enjoyed the huge breakfast buffet. One evening, we dined at their restaurant, Restaurant Weinlandhof, known for its excellent cuisine. The menu highlights Styrian delicacies prepared with seasonal and regional products.
How to Reach South Styria
The nearest big city is Graz, Austria’s second-largest city. If you’re flying into Austria internationally, Vienna is the nearest big international hub.
Many drive to the region. Having a car is helpful, but you don’t need one. You can get an e-bike if the weather is good, or you can get around easily by local taxi.
If You Go
For more information, check out the helpful website of the Südsteiermark tourism office.
Janna Graber is an award-winning American travel journalist who has written for national magazines, newspapers and websites. She is the managing editor of Go World Travel Magazine, and a member of the Society of American Travel Writers. Since studying abroad in Austria, she’s been in love with world travel, and has covered travel in more than 60 countries. She’s the author of three travel anthology books, including “A Pink Suitcase: 22 Tales of Women’s Travel” and “Adventures of a Lifetime”.
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