A Journey to Central Java Where History and Charm Await

Go World Travel is reader-supported and may earn a commission from purchases made through links in this piece.

The journey to Magelang and the surrounding towns, close to the Special Region of Yogyakarta, felt like stepping back into history.

We began well before dawn in Jakarta, Indonesia’s capital, reaching Borobudur by early afternoon. As we climbed Tol Layang MBZ, Indonesia’s longest flyover highway, the golden hues of sunrise greeted us.

By the time we approached the border separating West and Central Java, the mist hanging over the paddy fields had given way to bright greenery, setting the stage for the splendour of Central Java.

The drive itself was an experience. Roads winding through quaint villages and lush rice terraces offered glimpses of daily life. We saw children laughing as they rode bicycles, farmers tending to their crops and vendors selling fresh coconuts under makeshift stalls. The anticipation of the cultural treasures ahead made the hours on the road fly by.

Borobudur: A Monumental Marvel

Arriving at Borobudur, I was struck by how serene the town seemed despite being home to the largest Buddhist temple in the world.

Memories of my first visit 20 years ago came flooding back. Back then, climbing the temple was simple and unrestricted. Now, preserving the UNESCO Heritage site has necessitated stricter rules, including an online booking system and daily visitor caps. While these steps are necessary, I couldn’t help but feel the need for stricter enforcement to protect the structure further.

Despite these changes, the temple remains a masterpiece of design and spirituality. As I climbed the tiers, the intricately carved stone panels came alive under the soft light of the setting sun. Each panel depicted scenes from the Buddha’s life, teachings and the spiritual journey to enlightenment.

Standing atop the temple, gazing at Mount Merapi in the distance, I felt a sense of timeless connection—as though the stones themselves carried whispers of ancient wisdom.

Exploring the Smaller Temples: Pawon and Mendut

Pawon and Mendut temples, constructed alongside the Borobudur temple, completed the spiritual and cosmological journey of Buddhist beliefs. The three temples align perfectly from west to east, mirroring the stages of enlightenment depicted in the Borobudur temple’s structure. 

They narrate the Buddha’s life story from desire to nirvana, just as depicted in the three layers of the Borobudur temple structure itself. These layers depict Kamadhatu (the base structure symbolising one’s desires), Rupadhatu (the five layers in square shapes symbolising the removal of desire, but retaining the form) and Arupadhatu (the three layers in circles and the biggest stupa symbolising nirvana). 

While Pawon and Mendut lack the grandeur of their more famous counterpart, their historical significance is profound. Visiting these quiet sites felt like uncovering hidden chapters of history.

At Mendut, I marveled at the massive statue of Buddha inside the main chamber. The guide explained its symbolic significance, noting the hand gestures that conveyed teaching and meditation.

Meanwhile, Pawon’s smaller, more modest structure, surrounded by fragrant frangipani trees, exuded a charm of its own. Together, these temples formed a spiritual triad that echoed the enduring legacy of Java’s Buddhist past.

Evening Delights Around Borobudur

When night falls, the area near Borobudur transforms into a vibrant hub. Food carts line the streets, offering everything from traditional Mie Bakso (noodles served with meatballs) to Korean and Western delicacies.

I enjoyed watching children paint their favourite cartoon characters on tiny canvases in a corner. At the same time, the smoky aroma of satay (skewered and grilled meat served with peanut sauce) filled the air.

The sight of brightly lit VW vehicles carrying tourists around added a touch of whimsy to the lively atmosphere.

One vendor’s stall caught my eye—she was selling “wedang ronde,” a warm ginger drink with glutinous rice balls. As I sipped the comforting beverage, she shared stories about the town’s efforts to balance tourism with cultural preservation. It was a reminder that the people of Borobudur are as much a treasure as the temple itself.

The Green Villages of Candirejo

Candirejo village offered a refreshing escape with its eco-conscious lifestyle. I was amazed by the harmony in how the villagers lived. A Dokar (small horse cart) trip brought me to a small house where an elderly couple was engaged in making Tempe (fermented soybean), Indonesia’s favourite side dish that goes along with rice.

The man steamed the raw beans in two large containers while the woman was busy cutting banana leaves to wrap the finished Tempe. 

The beans are being steamed using wood fire. Once out of the containers, the beans are placed on a circular thatch tray and are dried using a hand-held fan. In the entire process no electricity is used, making it a very sustainable enterprise.

Turning to another alleyway, I entered the visitors’ area of a lady’s house where she was busy sitting among shopping bags, purses, totes and other articles, all made out of recycled plastic.

She was in the process of designing a new multi-purpose bag when I approached. A bag of that kind with a moderate size could be finished in an hour. She produces around 25-30 bags a day, depending on demand and the materials that are available. 

I ended the day with snacks at a rest house called Omah Kopi, where fried cassava and Wingko coconut pancakes were served without plastic utensils—an inspiring commitment to going green. The villagers’ pride in preserving their environment was evident in every interaction, and their warmth left a lasting impression.

Nepal van Java: Life on the Slopes of Mt. Sumbing

The next morning, we ventured to Dusun Butuh, famously nicknamed Nepal van Java. Though fog obscured the vibrant terraced houses, I marvelled at how the villagers thrived on the steep mountain slopes. 

Life here is like hanging on to some tree branches, but for the natives of Dusun Butuh, especially for the ones who took me on their bikes, it is their best comfort zone.

Around the village are vegetable gardens spread all over the mountain’s foot. Like in Candirejo, the villagers are particular about not throwing plastic recklessly.

On my way up, one of the bike riders stopped quickly to remind an outsider not to put a Styrofoam box on the roadside. He got off the bike and guided the man to a bin where the latter could deposit the trash appropriately. 

While the weather limited my views, walking through the vegetable fields and chatting with farmers was a humbling experience. I learned about the challenges they faced, from unpredictable weather to market fluctuations, and their resilience was inspiring.

The visit was a reminder of the simple beauty in a life deeply connected to nature.

Remnants of Sanjaya Dynasty

Visiting Java’s ancient Hindu-Buddhist temples brings to mind the legends and myths surrounding them, making the temples even more mysterious and captivating.

As I explored Prambanan, Sewu, Plaosan and the remnants of Ratu Boko palace, my thoughts dwelt on Roro Jonggrang and Pramodawardhani.  

Roro Jonggrang’s tale is widely celebrated and featured in performances and businesses. However, the story of Pramodawardhani, daughter of King Samaratungga of the Shailendra dynasty, is less known. She completed Borobudur after her father’s death and married Raka Pikatan of the Sanjaya dynasty, embodying a harmony between Hinduism and Buddhism.

Standing before the goddess Durga statue in Prambanan, I found myself pondering whether Pikatan used Pramodawardhani’s face as a model.

Nearby, Sewu temple and the inter-religious marriage of its creators underscored the religious coexistence of that era.

A short distance away lies Candi Plaosan, a Buddhist temple whose restoration is slow and complicated by road divisions and land acquisition issues. Only 20-30 of its 283 temples have been restored, yet its scattered stones and weathered reliefs still whisper ancient stories.

The Keraton, the Batik and Malioboro

In 2006, I arrived at Yogyakarta’s Malioboro street in a becak (a cycle rikshaw), finding a bustling thoroughfare alive with Andong, Bendi (two different kinds of horse carts), shops, and the Malioboro Mall.

Revisiting years later, the street retains its vibrant charm, though modernity has added wide footpaths with royal-style lampposts and concrete seating areas. Motorised becak, driven by young people, share space with traditional pedal-driven ones operated by the older generation.

By evening, Malioboro transformed into a lively market, teeming with food, souvenirs, performers and tightly packed crowds.

Entering Hamza Batik, I was surrounded by rows of fine batik clothes and entertained by a diorama of a Javanese royal household, complete with a life-sized statue. A lady offered me Jamu, a traditional herbal drink, mixing potions to suit each visitor’s taste.

Such traditions, like Jamu-making and batik weaving, were beloved pastimes in Java’s dynastic eras and are still alive in its villages.

Amid the modern bustle, the Keraton, the Sultan’s palace, stands as a timeless icon. Guided by middle-aged women in traditional green tops and batik skirts, visitors explored the open halls displaying Gamelan instruments and the unchanged royal ambiance.

Nearby, Taman Sari, the water castle, has grown in popularity, its evocative architecture drawing more visitors than ever before.

Bidding Farewell to Central Java

As my trip came to an end, I reflected on the unique blend of culture, history and natural beauty Central Java offers. From the temples to the villages, every place felt alive with stories waiting to be told. It’s not just a destination; it’s an experience that stays with you long after you leave.

Central Java had given me more than just memories—it offered lessons in resilience, spirituality and the importance of preserving our heritage. Leaving its vibrant streets and serene temples, I felt a profound sense of gratitude and a quiet hope to return someday, drawn once more by its timeless wonders.

Inspire your next adventure with our articles below:

Author Bio: Pramod Kanakath is a teacher and travels widely during holidays, focusing on anything related to nature, culture and climate change. He has been writing about Indonesia and other places for more than a decade. Some of his articles and photographs have appeared on major platforms like The Guardian, The Jakarta Post, NatGeo Your Shot, and Indonesia Expat among others. Originally from India, Pramod has called Indonesia home since 2005.