A Hidden Gem in the Colorado Rockies

Go World Travel is reader-supported and may earn a commission from purchases made through links in this piece.

It felt as though we were on the Polar Express, our jaws agape as we peered out the window. The train gripped the tracks for dear life, chugging along at a mind-bending height with only a sliver of space between the tracks and the canyon’s edge. It was exhilarating, being so immersed in the beauty of the Colorado mountains, our eyes tracing the green river that had spent eons meticulously carving the very canyon we were journeying through. 

If you want to experience one of the most magical train rides in the States and see a unique side of Colorado’s mountain beauty, I recommend adding Durango to your Colorado bucket list. While most visitors stick to the Front Range and the eastern slope of the Continental Divide—home to popular spots like Vail, Keystone, and Breckenridge—Durango offers a lesser-known yet equally captivating side of Colorado.

Located in the San Juan Mountains on the Western Slope, this small town is a year-round paradise without the typical crowds you’d find on the other side of the Rockies. About a five-hour drive from Denver, it offers affordable skiing, iconic experiences like the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, a beautiful historic town to explore, and access to outdoor activities in the San Juan Mountains.

Downtown Durango

Durango has that classic small-town Western charm, with the San Juan Mountains in the background and a main street filled with historic buildings, restaurants, and local shops. It’s a Nationally Registered Historic District, and though it only takes about 30 minutes to stroll from one end to the other, you can easily spend hours exploring galleries, cozy cafes, and shops.

My friend Skye and I took our time walking down the main street, popping into intriguing stores along the way and warming our hands with hot chocolate. Every place we passed had a welcoming energy, from lively bars to quiet bookstores. You can also stroll along the Animas River, soaking in the views of the La Plata Mountains, or check out local art galleries and museums.

Where to stay 

Strater Hotel

On our first night in Durango, we stayed at the Strater Hotel, which has been a staple of the town since 1887. It’s a true piece of Durango’s history, located right in the heart of downtown, just two blocks from the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad. 

The hotel is packed with old-west charm, featuring handcrafted woodwork, period wallpaper, and the largest collection of American Victorian walnut antiques. The architecture and interior really take you back in time, and even the waitstaff at the attached saloon dress like they’re from the 1800s.

The Strater is more than just a place to sleep—it’s a spot to relax and soak in the atmosphere. You can catch live music at the Diamond Belle Saloon, sip cocktails at The Office Spiritorium, or enjoy a laid-back meal at the Mahogany Grille. 

Where to Eat:

Carver Brewing Co.

For dinner in downtown Durango, we decided to visit Carver Brewing Co., a historic brewpub that’s the second in Colorado to open after Prohibition. Today, it’s one of the most medaled breweries on the Western Slope.

Breweries can be overwhelming when there are so many beers to choose from. What I loved about Carver was that the menu took out the guesswork, suggesting specific beer pairings for each meal. It made the whole experience feel more curated and approachable—and honestly, the pairings just made everything taste better.

For starters, Skye and I went with the Artichoke Spinach Dip, and it was rich, creamy, and incredibly satisfying. For our mains, Skye chose the Roasted Chickpea Salad, while I went for the Mac & Cheese. There are two places that really know how to do mac & cheese right: BBQ joints and breweries. I definitely made the right call. Skye paired her dish with a Raspberry Wheat Ale, which complemented her salad beautifully, while I enjoyed a smooth Old Oak Amber Ale.

If you’re in the mood for classic pub fare, Carver also offers a great selection of burgers, chili, and Mexican-inspired cuisine.

Other Dining Recommendations:

• Durango Coffee Co – A great spot for coffee and a light breakfast, especially before riding the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad
• Durango Bagel – We stopped here to pick up some delicious bagels for lunch at the Cascade Canyon Express halfway point.
• Himalayan Kitchen – A go-to spot for flavorful Nepalese, Tibetan, and Indian dishes.
• Akami Poke Ramen – Serves up fresh poke bowls and comforting ramen.
• Sage – A casual eatery known for fresh, locally inspired meals.
• 11th Street Station – An outdoor food truck hub featuring a mix of global flavors.
• Fired Up – Specializing in wood-fired pizza, with a great rooftop patio.
• Animas Chocolate Company – A small-batch chocolatier known for rich, locally made treats.
• Ska Brewing – A well-known brewery with a spacious patio, located just outside of downtown.
• Zia Taqueria – A local favorite for quick, healthy Mexican food, just a short drive from downtown.

Ride the Historic Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad

Riding the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad—a historic steam-powered train that’s been running since 1882—is one of the most iconic experiences in Durango. Originally built to transport gold and silver from the San Juan Mountains, it now offers one of the most scenic train rides in the country.

In the summer, the train travels to the mining town of Silverton, high in the Rockies. In winter, it transforms into the Cascade Canyon Winter Train, a 5.25-hour round-trip journey through snow-covered landscapes, stopping at a picturesque riverside location where passengers can enjoy a fireside lunch, take photos, or explore the canyon on foot.

The best seat in the house? The glass-ceiling car, which my friend and I were lucky enough to have. The train winds along the edge of towering cliffs, with panoramic views of jagged rock faces and the Animas River carving through the canyon.

Sometimes, you’re riding right along the river; other times, you’re 400 feet above on the Highline, looking down at the rushing rapids, which I considered the most breathtaking part of the journey. For an even better view, you can step outside between cars for an unobstructed look at the landscape.

To make the ride even cozier, we grabbed a glass of wine and a Bailey’s hot chocolate—highly recommend. Some food is served onboard (and you can preorder box lunches), but I suggest picking up a bagel from Durango Bagel beforehand for a picnic lunch at the halfway point.

Purgatory Resort & Lodge

After spending my life skiing at crowded, expensive resorts like Vail and Breckenridge, skiing at Purgatory was a breath of fresh air—affordable, easy to navigate, and with way fewer people.

What made the experience even more laid-back was staying at Purgatory Lodge, a true ski-in, ski-out resort. At most places, you either wake up at the crack of dawn to sit in traffic for two hours (if you’re coming from Denver) or, even if you’re staying nearby, you still have to take a shuttle or haul your gear through the village. At Purgatory Lodge, it’s a two-minute walk to the lift. Everything is right there—just head downstairs for your lift ticket, and if you need rentals, they’re right next door.

The lodge itself is a recently renovated complex of spacious apartments. Our two-bedroom place could have easily hosted five people, and the best part was the direct view of the main slope. The lodge offers immediate access to the high-speed lift, making it one of the best ski-in/ski-out options, though there are also plenty of luxury condos and townhomes nearby with lift access. With a pool, game room, and restaurant on-site, you have everything you need.

Since Skye and I went in late November, only one lift was open, but we still skied nearly the entire day. The runs were mostly blues and greens—super fun and completely stress-free without the usual crowds. I can only imagine how good the skiing is later in the season when the snow is deep and more lifts are running.

For context, a single-day lift ticket at Vail runs between $250 and $300, which is ridiculous. At Purgatory, tickets are under $100, and on some days, as low as $9. Nine dollars. As someone who’s only ever paid a fortune to ski, that blew my mind. The views are incredible, and even Skye—who literally skis every weekend—gave it her seal of approval.

Good to know: If you’re visiting outside peak season, dining options are limited. You can grab food directly within Purgatory Lodge or at Purgy’s Slopeside Restaurant at the base of the mountain, serving the same menu. It’s good but a little pricey, like most ski resorts. If you eat there, get the Brie—it’s worth it. There are also a couple of bars on the mountain, which is always a solid après-ski move. We ended the day at the Powderhouse, a bar near the top of the slope, where we sipped good cocktails and took in the view. Learn more about dining options at Purgatory Resort.

Read More: Free Activities in Colorado Ski Country

Spring Skiing at Purgatory Resort

As winter turns to spring, skiing in Colorado hits its peak—the snow is still thick, but the weather is warmer. With snow lasting until May in some parts of the mountains, ski resorts stay open well into the spring season. Purgatory tends to be open through the end of April but varies each year. View their calendar here.

Purgatory Resort is kicking off its first-ever Spring Fling Festival this year from March 17th to April 13th, 2025. It’s a month of fun with live music, contests, food and drink specials, and plenty of spring skiing to go around.

Some Event Highlights

• St. Patrick’s Day & Ska Brewing Party (March 17): Green-themed fun with live music and local beer.
• Hollywood Huckfest Slopestyle Freeride (March 22): Crazy stunts in a freestyle competition.
• Annual Pond Skim (April 13): Watch skiers and snowboarders try to skim across a chilly pond in costume.

If you book lift tickets online in advance during the festival, you’ll get a $10 daily resort credit. It’s the perfect way to wrap up the ski season while soaking in some sunshine.

For full details on the festival, check out Purgatory Resort’s Spring Fling page.

 Durango Hot Springs: The Best Way to Unwind

Located about halfway between downtown Durango and Purgatory Resort, Durango Hot Springs is the perfect spot to unwind after a day on the slopes. Following a $14 million renovation, the resort features over 40 water elements, including 32 mineral pools with varying temperatures. The thermal waters are uniquely infused with nano-meter and micro-meter oxygen bubbles, making them especially healing.

I’ve visited some of the best hot springs around the world—onsens in Japan, thermal baths in the Dolomites, and canyon springs in Iceland—so I had high expectations. Durango Hot Springs definitely delivered.

For a private experience, you can reserve one of the cedar “Ofuro” soaking tubs and adjust the temperature to your liking. My friend and I began in a private tub for two, which was the perfect way to settle in before checking out the other pools.

Another highlight was the bar and food trucks—you can sip cocktails or grab food while soaking in the springs. There’s something unbeatable about the contrast of cold air on your face, hot water swirling around you, a grilled cheese in one hand and a glass of wine in the other. Add in good conversation with my best friend and it was the best way to relax after a long day of skiing.

The facilities at Durango Hot Springs are clean, well-designed, and open late, with hot tea stations, robe and towel rentals, and a great variety of pools. This is absolutely worth checking out while you’re in Durango.

If You Go:

If you’re visiting from out of state, you have two main options: fly into Denver and drive or fly directly to Durango. While the latter is more convenient, it’s typically much more expensive. The drive from Denver to Durango is long but incredibly scenic, cutting straight through the Rockies.

Regardless of how you get there, you’ll need to rent a car to get around. If you’re staying in downtown Durango, Purgatory Resort is about a 30-minute drive, and the hot springs are about 15 minutes away. The Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, on the other hand, departs right from downtown and is easily accessible on foot. If you’re staying at the historic Strater Hotel, they provide parking for guests.

Once you’re on the Western Slope, you can explore other nearby mountain towns like Silverton and Leadville, each offering its own charm and history.

Visit Durango Official Website

Drive Cautiously

If you’re visiting in the winter, be extra cautious driving over Wolf Creek Pass—it’s infamous for brutal snow conditions. My friend and I had to make the drive back in a blizzard, and it was no joke, especially if you’re not used to navigating mountain roads in the snow.

My advice is to go even slower than you think you need to. And if you have to stop, make sure it’s absolutely necessary—starting up again can make your car lose traction. If you end up behind a semi, don’t try to pass. Trucks crawl over the pass for a reason, and it’s safer to wait until you’re past it. It can take 2+ hours to cross in bad conditions.

Once you’re over the pass, the roads are usually much clearer. However, Wolf Creek Pass does often close during extreme weather. If that happens, your best bet is to wait out the storm or take the longer (but safer) route through New Mexico to get back to Denver.

Inspire your next adventure with our articles below: