Ireland’s Ancient Boyne Valley Beckons Beyond Dublin

On a rainy day in early spring, I hopped on a tour bus with 23 other travelers to travel from Dublin to the Boyne Valley. We were visiting one of my bucket list destinations, and I couldn’t have been more pleased with my experience.

The Beauty of the Boyne Valley

Ireland’s Boyne Valley took my breath away. Figuratively speaking, of course, however, there were several times during my visit that I was without words, my heart fluttered, and I gasped with excitement and wonder.

When planning my trip to Dublin, I knew I would have to get to the Boyne Valley. Luckily, there are several options for getting there, most conveniently via an organized tour, which is what I did.

A Brief Overview of Ireland’s Ancient East

As part of Ireland’s Ancient East and located about an hour north of Dublin, the Boyne Valley is a history lover’s dream. Its locations include Newgrange, Trim Castle and the site of the Battle of the Boyne.

Even non-history buffs will be taken with the green landscape that stretched for miles, dotted with farms, cottages, churches and hedges.

Ireland’s Ancient East covers a large area of land north and south of Dublin. It includes Ancient, Medieval and Early Christian sites.

In the Boyne Valley alone, you’ll find Newgrange, Knowth, Dowth, Monasterboice, Old Mellifont Abbey, Trim Castle and historic homes such as Oldbridge House, located on the land where the Battle of Boyne took place years earlier.

Brú na Bóinne Visitor Centre: Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth

The first stop on my day in the Boyne Valley was the impressive Brú na Bóinne Visitor Centre. This is where you begin your visit to Newgrange and Knowth.

This World Heritage Property is part of Ireland’s rich archaeological landscape and is located along a bend in the River Boyne. Famous for its prehistoric passage tombs of Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth, which were built circa 3200 BC.

You can visit Newgrange and Knowth, two of the most important Neolithic sites in the world. Some tours also allow entry into the amazing passage tomb at Newgrange.

The Visitor Centre itself is rich with informative exhibits, a café and a gift shop. With ticket in hand, you’ll soon take a bus to the passage tombs to begin your guided visit. Note, you can only see these sites via the Visitor Centre.

Upon my first view of the massive structure that is Newgrange, my excitement was nearly uncontainable. With a camera in hand, the knowledgeable guide shared the history of the passage tomb, who built it, why and how.

Its 97 large kerbstones, some of which are engraved with symbols called megalithic art, are a wonder. The most striking is the entrance stone, with its spiral carvings. Newgrange is also surrounded by standing stones.

In the near distance, sheep and cows grazed in picturesque pastoral scenes juxtaposed with 5,000 years of history.

You are given the opportunity to walk around the grounds, spying the River Boyne and Knowth nearby, as you await your opportunity to enter the passage tomb.

Taking a small group inside at a time, it’s humbling to enter this sacred space, used for burials, and marvel at the construction and the carvings. Your guide will activate lighting, recreating what Newgrange looks like at sunrise on the winter solstice—and it’s amazing.

Battle of the Boyne Visitor Centre – Oldbridge Estate

The next stop on my day in the Boyne Valley was the Battle of the Boyne Visitor Centre. The Battle of the Boyne took place on July 1, 1690, when King William III clashed with his father-in-law, King James II, on this land.

Although not a well-known battle by many outside of Ireland, it was a pivotal episode in Irish and European history.

Both kings commanded their armies in person, with over 60,000 soldiers in all. At stake was the British throne, French domination in Europe and religious power in Ireland. William was victorious. During your visit, you can learn about the Battle through an informative video and exhibits.

The 18th-century house serves as the visitor centre, and there are also walled gardens and a tearoom.

The gardens were beginning to bloom, and their formality sharply contrasted with the bloody events that unfolded here centuries earlier. There was a sense of calm and beauty in the gardens, which overlooked the battlefield with the River Boyne in the near distance.

This is a good place for fans of history, stately homes, or gardens.

Boyne Valley Tours & Excursions

Monasterboice

History and community are the focus at Monasterboice. While it is a historic site (dating back to the 5th century), it’s still an active cemetery for local families.

The ruins are the remains of an early Christian monastic settlement. The site includes the remains of two churches built in the 14th century and an impressive round tower built around 983.

There are three high crosses on the grounds dating from the 10th century. The 18-foot-tall Muiredach’s High Cross is regarded as the finest high cross in the whole of Ireland. It is named after an abbot, Muiredach mac Domhnaill, who died in 923 and features biblical carvings.

My arms would soon ache from all the photos I would be taking, and our entire tour group was amused at the sight of a group of cows being guided through an adjacent field. Another reminder that time doesn’t stand still.

However, walking around Monasterboice often felt like time travel as I read the stones and stared in awe at the high crosses. Adjacent to the main entry is a field containing the unmarked graves of hundreds of victims of the Great Famine. This was a meaningful stop on our day in Boyne Valley and a thoughtful place to visit.

Hill of Tara

Several tour operators include the Hill of Tara on their itineraries. A passage tomb was built here in the late Stone Age, but the Hill became more important during the Iron Age and Early Christian Period, when it was the seat of the high kings of Ireland.

St. Patrick is said to have been here in the fifth century, and as Christianity grew, Tara also grew into an important symbolic place.

These days, only earthworks remain, including passage tombs. However, you can still see some remarkable things, including the Lia Fáil (the great coronation stone) and the Mound of the Hostages – a 5,000-year-old passage tomb.

The visitor centre is charming, housed in an older church where you can join an organized tour and watch a video about the site.

Trim Castle

The heritage town of Trim contains many medieval buildings, including Trim Castle. The castle is the largest Anglo-Norman fortification in Ireland and took 30 years to build.

Enter the gate and explore the grounds or climb the three-story keep. Tours are available, and exhibits share the history of this beautiful castle nestled along the River Boyne. Spend some time exploring Trim during your visit.

Old Mellifont Cistercian Abbey Monastic Site

While today, you will see mostly ruins, it’s still an interesting stop. Mellifont Abbey was the first Cistercian monastery in Ireland, dating to 1142, when St. Malachy of Armagh created it with the help of a small number of monks sent by St. Bernard from Clairvaux (France).

The monks did not take well to Ireland and soon returned to France, but the abbey project continued. The two-story octagonal lavabo (wash house) is one of the remaining partially intact sections.

More recent history (relatively speaking) includes signing the Treaty of Mellifont, which ended the Nine Years’ War (1603). In addition, William of Orange used the abbey as his headquarters during the momentous Battle of the Boyne.

Walkers Take Note

If you are interested in a historic walk, the Boyne Valley Camino may be for you. Starting in Drogheda (take a train from Dublin to Drogheda) at St. Peter’s Church and follow the 15.5-mile loop.

You’ll see both nature and history throughout your walk. The Camino takes you along the riverside, down woodland paths and quiet country roads. You’ll see Old Mellifont Abbey and Oldbridge House, pass the Boyne Islands and ancient forests and continue under the Mary McAleese Boyne Bridge back into Drogheda.

Stamps designed by local artists can be collected on official Camino Passports. Download a map in advance or get one at the tourist office in Drogheda.

Getting to the Boyne Valley

Many tour operators offer one-day tours from Dublin to the Boyne Valley. Compare options on Viator and Get Your Guide and consider what you want to see. During my tour, other travelers mentioned returning with different groups that week.

While this list includes some of the places one can visit, there are others, as this area is packed with history, charming towns and gracious locals.

For more information, go to Discover Boyne Valley and Heritage Ireland

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Author Bio: Mary Casey-Sturk is an Editor and Writer for Living Magazines (Kentucky) as well as a contributor to Smoky Mountain Living Magazine (North Carolina). Mary is also a content developer, freelance travel, food, wine and features writer and the author of “Eating Cheese Curds with Strangers”.

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