Exploring Zimbabwe’s Stunning Lake Kariba by Houseboat

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Zimbabwe lures me like a magnet, and each time I return to this landlocked nation of diversity, I discover a new beauty. The country of Zimbabwe is rich in natural splendour. It is full of unspoilt landscapes, rock-strewn mountains and valleys, vast floodplains, dense savanna woodlands, and an abundance of water.

My recent journey has taken me to Lake Kariba, the largest man-made lake in the world. In December, our family gathered onboard a luxury houseboat here.

Lake Kariba is fed by the almighty Zambezi River, which begins its 2700-kilometre voyage in northwest Zambia and extends through Mozambique to the Indian Ocean. The lake provides a significant source of power for both Zimbabwe and Zambia and supports local fishing industries in the townships dotted along the shorelines.

The area is a spectacular wilderness of African wildlife, scattered with tiny islands with no mainland in sight and an everchanging sky swept with colour.

A Zimbabwe Road Trip

Our journey begins on the outskirts of Harare, where our family and friends have loaded our supplies into 4-wheel-drive vehicles to begin the 5-hour road trip to Kariba. A road trip through Zimbabwe is an adventure within itself.

Despite the unmaintained roads, riddled with potholes and few marked lines, the vast countryside is awe-inspiring, sprinkled with colourful villages and vibrant roadside stalls.

Having travelled this road numerous times, our regular halfway stop is at Saucy Sues. The restaurant has the best fresh burgers en route to Kariba and is renowned for its diverse selection of sauces and dressings to accompany the delicious burgers.

Saucy Sues is a welcoming rest destination. It offers casual outdoor seating set amongst cosy lush gardens encircling a rambling timber treehouse.

Before departing take a moment to check out the beautiful locally handcrafted products, select some snacks for the road and stock up on pantry supplies of homemade sauces and relishes.

Lake Kariba and Meeting the Houseboat Crew

Two more hours on the road brings us to Marineland Harbour, situated just off the main road entrance to Kariba.

The harbour is one of the largest in Lake Kariba with a fleet of more than 30 houseboats available for chartering. Encircled by a coastline of scenic hills speckled with vibrant homes, the harbour provides a gateway to the enormity of Lake Kariba.

The houseboat crew meets our vehicles on the shoreline. They then transfer our luggage and food supplies onto the mini barge in preparation for delivery to our houseboat.

Boarding a speed boat, we are transported across the harbour to the awaiting houseboat, gleaming in the golden rays of the midday sun. Within an hour, we are relaxing on the top deck with drinks in hand. Meanwhile, our captain manoeuvres the houseboat out of the harbour and into what feels like the ocean.

The sheer size of Lake Kariba makes the distant shorelines disappear into the horizon. After leaving the harbour, it is several hours before we see land again.

Our Floating Home

This magnificent houseboat is our home for the next four days. It has five ensuite bedrooms, cosy lounges, a fully equipped kitchen, an onboard pool and an outdoor bar flanked by enticing daybeds on the upstairs deck.

Our captain will navigate our boat across the lake, where submerged trees, shallow sandbanks, and camouflaged hippos may otherwise hinder the less experienced.

Three delightful crew members oversee all housekeeping, leaving us to relax, eat, drink, and chat while absorbing the incredible surrounding beauty.

The houseboat charter offered the option of having a chef onboard, but we are a family that loves to cook. So, after preparing our meals in the galley, our wonderful crew will serve our feast at the banquet-style dining table on the top deck.

After 2 hours of cruising, we reach a remote section of the mainland on the other side of the lake. Our crew ties the boat to fallen tree trunks on the embankment.

A family of zebras warily observes us as a flock of birds takes flight from the shore. We have discussed the possibility of this adventure for years, so finally being here is exhilarating.

The children are buzzing with excitement while the adults gather around the bar on the top deck or recline on a day bed surrounded by the splendour of Lake Kariba.

An African Storm

The humidity is high, although a gentle breeze is sweeping across the lake. An afternoon thunderstorm, typical for this time of year, is quickly rolling in from the west, accompanied by swollen purple and grey menacing cloud formations and the imminent smell of rain.

A few minutes pass before the clouds begin to rumble and a bolt of lightning strikes across the water. We laugh nervously, awaiting the massive crash of thunder and the sudden downpour of tropical rain.

As rapidly as its arrival, the storm clouds withdraw, revealing the final hours of daylight as the setting sun slowly drifts into the distant mountains.

Safari Across the Lake

A crew member proposes a sundown water game drive, the perfect time of day to catch sight of wildlife. Our safari vessel is the 10-seat speed boat towed behind the houseboat.

Our experienced crew is amazing. They respect and understand the lake, the numerous islands, potential dangers, and where to discover magnificent African wildlife. Throughout the day, hippos, an occasional crocodile, and abundant birdlife are observed from the houseboat deck. However, the speed boat transports us closer than we have ever experienced in the wild.

Drifting slowly towards an island, we see five sets of eyes resting on the water. Large, shiny brown heads emerge, and five enormous hippos cautiously watch us cruise by. Deep hippo “laughs” echo across the lake, although I am sure they are not really amused. A yawn or a laugh from a hippo is often a warning sign, so respect their space.

Approaching the small rocky but otherwise barren island, a camouflaged crocodile awakens and slides into the water. We are close enough to see its densely patterned dinosaur skin on a powerful 3-metre body before it disappears under the water, with surface ripples the only indication of where it is heading.

Evening Colors

The sky is slowly changing colour and nature’s artist has painted vibrant strokes of pink and orange across the horizon. We circle the island searching for elephants, however tonight they have eluded us.

The sound of bird life is deafening as hundreds of birds begin to settle for the evening, sharing stories about their day and feeding their offspring.

Lake Kariba is inundated with thousands of ghostly grey dead trees, swallowed by the Zambezi River when the lake was built in the 1950s.

These trees are a part of the lake’s bewitching beauty and history, and in the evening, they remind me of apartment condos teeming with hundreds of birds descending upon them.

The End of a Perfect Day

Arriving back at the houseboat, our surroundings are silhouetted against the deep red sky of the setting sun. The humidity has dropped, and the evening lights on the boat welcome us back on board for our first evening of houseboat entertainment.

Drinks are served, music is playing, and the children are dancing. When we have prepared our feast, the crew waits for us while we dine on the top deck.

There are tiny lights from a distant town, the gentle breeze has returned, and we rejoice in our magical surroundings with family and friends. As the evening progresses, some of us retire to our luxurious queen-size beds. Meanwhile, others have chosen to drop mosquito nets over the day beds and sleep under the moon and stars.

At sunrise, the early risers scramble into the speed boat for another pre-arranged game drive. The remainder of us stay on board, sipping freshly brewed coffee.

When they returned, I was slightly envious to learn that a herd of elephants was bathing on the shores of a nearby island. I will not miss another game drive.

Elephant Sighting

Following breakfast, our crew untie the ropes, and our houseboat departs for another 4-hour cruise further up the lake. Each day uncovers new beauty, multiple game drives and a thousand photo opportunities.

On the second day I meet the elephants, 3 adults and a calf. The boat drifts for 20 minutes allowing us to watch them interacting on an island. Elephants are reminiscent of a majestic prehistoric beauty, and certainly my most loved African animal.

Our journey takes four days, and each night, we find another haven, another game drive, and unforgettable family time together. The days are warm and humid, and a thunderstorm rolls by each afternoon.

Incredibly, a landlocked country has so much water. When we eventually return to Marineland Harbour, I feel blessed that we finally achieved what was, for so many years, just a dream.

If You Go:

Harare International Airport is approximately 320km (200 miles) from Kariba and a 6-hour drive. Flights from Harare to Kariba take 90 minutes.

Check what the houseboat operator provides, including the crew. We took all our food, drinks, sunscreen, toiletries, insect repellent, summer clothing and swimwear, a music playlist, books, sunhats, a camera, and a Zimbabwe power connection.

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Author Bio: Karin Mander is an Australian freelance travel journalist with a passion for travel, photography, and documenting her journeys. She has visited Zimbabwe more than 20 times and is the owner operator of an Australian tourism business, welcoming travelers from around the world.