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It is the middle of the day. The forest seems to be breathing as its steamy, humid wisps wear out the travellers. In glades inside the emerald forests lie beautifully contrasting brick red structures. These are the remains of ancient temples after the bombings by American forces in the Vietnam War.
The ruins look promising as if, at every turn, you might find some long-lost Cham treasure, making you feel like Indiana Jones himself. There are no bejewelled treasures. But if you look closely, you can find rock art borrowed from Indian mythology strewn everywhere.
There is a Shiv lingam here and a Ganesha statue there, almost making you wonder if this is India for Indiana Jones (at the Temple of Doom?)
No, this is Vietnam at the heart of the ancient Cham empire. These are the ruins of My Son. Acres of temple trails hidden in jungles from an ancient era that time seems to have forgotten.
Where Are the Temples of My Son?
A UNESCO World Heritage site, My Son is located right in the middle of the rudimentary ‘S’ shape that Vietnam resembles. It is an easy day trip from Danang (the closest airport) or from Hoi An (another of the country’s World Heritage sites.)
Like most destinations in Southeast Asia, there are plenty of options available, from coach tours to guided private trips.
The Cham Empire and the Concept of Greater India
Built between the 4th and 13th century AD, these temples constituted the religious and spiritual capital of the Cham Empire that ruled a large tranche of present-day Vietnam.
The kingdom, akin to the neighbouring Khmer kingdom, creators of Angkor Wat, was heavily influenced by Hinduism that spread not through military might but via trade.
Merchants from India travelling to Southeast Asia spurred the doctrines, philosophy, and practice of Hinduism. As a result, most of Southeast Asia adopted either Hinduism or Buddhism. This created the concept of ‘Greater India,’ whereby Indic principles governed these lands, although never directly.
The result was the kingdoms of Bagan (Myanmar), Funan and Champa (Vietnam), Khmer (Cambodia), Sukothai (Thailand), Mataram, Srivijaya, Sunda and Majapahit (Indonesia). These and many others adopted Hindu or Buddhist philosophies, nomenclatures, and Sanskrit as the official language.
Expansive architectural complexes, such as Angkor, My Son, Ayutthaya, Prambanan, and Borbodur, can be found in each kingdom. Their rock-cut splendour reminds us of the adoption and evolution of Greater India in Southeast Asia.
Today, with the exception of Bali, Hinduism has waned. Islam has replaced it in countries such as Malaysia and Indonesia. Meanwhile, Buddhism has persisted even after millennia in countries such as Myanmar and Thailand.
The Shiva Temples of My Son
The temples at My Son are dedicated to Lord Shiva, the destroyer in the Hindu pantheon of creation, preservation and destruction.
Legends tell us of King Bhadravarman, who built one of the earliest temples here. His successors followed until My Son developed into this fantastic mosaic of brick-layered temple complex. It is similar to the other temple complexes, such as in Bagan or Siam Reap, where the entire precinct is the collective efforts of generations.
Even today, as you wander through the ruins, you will see Shiva Lingas, the symbolic phallic representation of the yin and yang of Shiva and his consort Parvati in some of these temples.
The temples, nearly 70 in number here, are classified in groups from A – L and more. As you wander through the ruins, you will also be able to recognise the rubicund bricks used to create the temples instead of stone, with the remnants of intricate carvings on some.
It is interesting to note that the Indian government is funding and driving much of the renovation work as a symbol of friendship between the two countries.
As you wander through these ruins, your imagination will undoubtedly be fuelled, and you will wonder how My Son must have looked at the peak of its prosperity.
The French Connection
Similar to Angkor Wat, the rediscovery of My Son is credited to a Frenchman, Camille Paris. The archaeologist and cartographer found these ancient temples while laying telegraph lines between south and central Vietnam.
The French gave the moniker ‘My Son’ implying beautiful mountain after a nearby village. Two decades later, in the early 20th century, noted French archaeologists Parmentier and Chapeaux arrived for a larger expedition.
They uncovered priceless statues, gemstones, the entire precinct of beautifully carved towering temples and rock-carved stele inscriptions, thereby commencing the long journey of restoring these millennia-old temples.
Unfortunately, years of restoration were destroyed in a single week of American bombing in 1965 to counter guerrilla forces hiding in these temples.
Museums to Explore More of the Ancient Champa Kingdom
The paintings, drawings and photographs left behind by Parmentier give us a tantalising glimpse of the wonder that was My Son. Very little remains today, though efforts are once again being made to piece together the ruins and the rubble.
Museums dedicated to the Cham Empire still contain a wealth of information and history. A small but richly curated museum at the very start of the temple complex houses well-preserved artifacts, statues and information about the Champa Empire and its key strongholds.
If these excite you, visiting the Museum of Cham Culture at Danang is a must. It houses a much larger, grander and splendid collection of statues from My Son and other Cham spots from the Hindu pantheon including Shiva, Vishnu, Durga Ganesha and many more.
The narrations provide informative inputs on the stories of Hindu mythology that inspired the temples and the statues.
Until My Son is rebuilt to its former glory, these museums will continue to provide testimony to the rock-cut treasures that bedecked the temples while reminding us of the artistic zenith scaled by the Champa Empire over a thousand years back.
How to Reach My Son
- By road from Danang (~45 km) or Hoi An (~35 km)
- It is recommended to spend the evening after My Son at Hoi An, the latter being renowned for its night markets and vibrant boat rides at night.
- Hoi An has a range of accommodation for all budgets and can be explored as a destination in its own right
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Author Bio: Ayan Adak is a consultant by profession who loves traveling, and has been to nearly 30 countries. He likes writing about his travel experiences besides scribbling poetry, short stories and essays.
Go World Travel Magazine is a digital magazine for world travelers. Our editorial content is produced by a dedicated team of travel journalists who know the regions they cover. We cover travel in more than 90 countries.
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