The Mystical Scottish Peatlands of the Isle of Skye

“Unlike water purifiers in cities, we have natural filters that give us pure water,” said Patti, the owner of Craig Highland Farm. The farm was my base station for exploring the Isle of Skye—the largest and northernmost island in the Inner Hebrides of Scotland.

Although I was only eight miles away from Skye, I decided to savor the farm’s peculiarities instead of rushing towards the island.

A stream meandered gently through the yellow-green mountain meadows, embedded with pink rhododendrons, against the backdrop of the farm.

“The unique boggy peat that blankets Skye’s mountains are our natural filters. We hardly get sick and live long because the water passes through herbal bushes and medicinal plants growing on the peatlands,” said Patti.

When dead plants fall on waterlogged areas, they fail to fully decompose due to a lack of oxygen. Over the centuries, this partially decomposed matter has layered to form compact peat.

Peatlands, blanketing almost 20 percent of Scotland, act as sponges. By absorbing organic matter, dirt, and extra nutrients from the water, they provide high-quality water to locals. Globally, peat can store twice as much carbon as all the world’s forests combined.

The next morning, a rare pine marten passed by my cottage, which overlooked Loch Carron.

“Loch”, meaning a sea inlet or lake in Scotland, was the perfect place to spot seals and otters. Walking along the loch, I encountered the most dramatic water pools nestled among the peat.

Folklore calls them “greedy-gurgling water holes” on which the moon falls and is rescued with prayers and chants. As the land merges with the water, the dark peat bogs are seen as “shapeshifters” by the locals, symbolizing risk or the deep loss of loved ones. Some people practiced exorcism here.

Peatlands are magical, evoking awe-mixed admiration. A chunk of peat looks like a coal-black sludge entangled with strands and roots.

But peat supports life. Bees feed on purple Ling heather flowers, cattle graze on sulfur-yellow bog asphodel, and bugs live under the earthy red Sphagnum moss that grows on the peat.

However, the peat’s mystery and beauty truly unfold on the enchanting Isle of Skye.

Sligachan Peatland

“People have gone missing on the isle,” local guidance resonated, pumping both fear and endorphins into my mind as I trudged through the bogs, jostling to make out. Often surrounded by thick mist, the locals pointed to Skye’s unforgiving remoteness, where one cannot dare stray away from the path.

Peat bogs are extremely acidic and oxygen-deprived, so anything that falls into them gets mummified. The decaying is so slow that human bodies dating back to 1200 BC have been excavated from Scottish peat.

Even the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh displays clothes from the 1700s that were found in peat bogs.

A 52-minute drive from the farm ended at Loch Sligachan on Skye’s eastern coast. After breakfast at Sconser Lodge, I followed a trail, admiring numerous slopes, ridges, and streams that support Sligachan’s globally important blanket bogs.

Harboring extremely rare golden eagles, bog orchids, and pipeworts, the Sligachan Peatland is a designated special area of conservation.

The trail led to the iconic Sligachan Old Bridge, built over the River Sligachan. Sea trout lay their eggs here, and juvenile Atlantic salmon and brown trout inhabit the river. These fish, which sustain Islanders, are alive due to peatlands.

Sphagnum moss can soak up water up to 20 times its weight and prevent fish from dying by releasing water during droughts. During flooding, it slows down the water’s speed, preventing fish eggs from sweeping away. 

While most of the crowd was drawn to the bridge, a nearby short trail led me to a lonely waterfall—perfect for an afternoon dip. Drenched in mist hovering over the grassy scenery, I took refuge at the Sligachan Hotel. 

Serving fish and chips with single malt Scotch whisky, the bartender remarked, “The rustic, pungent warmth you feel in each sip is infused with Scotland’s peat.”

Talisker Distillery

I joined an indulgent whisky-tasting tour at the oldest working distillery, Talisker Distillery. It sits near Carbost village on the west side of Loch Harport, on the Minginish peninsula of Skye.

Explaining the role of peat in Scottish whisky, Ian Hicks, our tour guide, said, “The malted barley grains are tossed into a wood-fired kiln, followed by chunks of peat that give rise to a grayish purple peat smoke. The smoke surrounds the barley, and its aroma gets absorbed within its husk.”

Over centuries, peated whisky has become a part of Scottish culture. Sipping a locally brewed Scotch takes you back to the wild Highland moors and coastal grasslands.

Although the entire Scotch whisky industry uses less than one percent of the total peat extracted in the UK, there is a growing concern because it takes a thousand years to form one meter of peat.

Also, Scotland’s peatlands have stored 140 years’ worth of the UK’s total annual greenhouse gas emissions, making them highly valuable against climate change.

However, commercial distilleries are looking for alternative fast-growing herbs, and the Scotch Whisky Association has developed an “Innovative Peat Action Plan” to guide whisky companies in reducing their emissions.

You can buy aged Scotch near Talisker’s visitor centre. Else, gauge on garlic butter-laden oysters and lobsters with some whisky at the Oyster shed. Its owner, Paul, like many Carbost fishermen, farms oysters on the shores of Loch Harport.

Bla Bheinn (Blaven)

“Where is civilization,” I murmured, retracing my steps back to the road through the twisty jungle trail. Against the general advice to allow 5-6 hours for the trek, I had started late to summit Bla Bheinn, which stands at 929 meters.

The scattered silver birch trees shone like dazzling white ghosts, while the waterfall from the Allt na Dunaiche River crashed into the dark crystalline rocks of Blaven like a milky way in the night sky.

Listening to the river flowing parallel to the trail, I reached the car park in the pitch dark. It was ghoulishly soothing, with only chirping crickets and the occasional hoot of long-eared owls. Hikers had pitched tents and campervans around the area.

I recalled starting my trek from the same place earlier in the afternoon. A road from Broadford to Elgol runs through Torrin village, then around the head of Loch Slapin to reach Blaven car park. 

Blaven, fondly called the “blue Munro,” is the most magnificent mountain in the UK. It offers a dramatic view of Black Cuillin Ridge to the west and overlooks Red Cuillin to the north.

When you start the hike, you pass through narrow woodlands that open into a wide peat bog. These bogs are simple yet deceptive. Heathers wrap around the hummocks, offering a bumpy but secure footing, while soggy sphagnum patches are dwindling and riskier.

Although there is a dedicated path, people often stray from it. Usually, when rainwater washes away the soil, it creates gullies. People instinctively step onto the sturdier ground, deviating into the peat.

Increased footfalls damage peat, exposing them to air and speeding up their decomposition. This causes the absorbed carbon of thousands of years to start releasing into the atmosphere in a relatively short time.

However, John Muir Trust is working to repair and fix the path. An interpretation board on the bog describes their work on reviving an old, drained peatland.

After the bog, it was a steep climb as I scrambled up the slippery basalt ridge to reach the top. Tired, I perched on a rock, nibbling on cake packed from Amy’s Place in Torrin.

Loch Fionna-Choire sat blue amid the green hill moors while the granite ridge of Red Cuillins blazed red in the setting sun. Unfortunately, it was time to head back home, leaving behind the breathtaking views.

If You Go:

Getting There

Bus services operate from Inverness and Glasgow to the island. Alternatively, trains to Kyle of Lochals terminate near the Skye Bridge. Bus services like Stagecoach and skybus.com run within Skye. Alternatively, hop on a ferry from Mallaig on Highland’s west coast to Armadale on the Skye. The trip costs £3 – £4 and takes 40 min.

You can hire a car from Inverness or a family-run car rental in Armadale, take a day tour from Inverness, or take three-day excursions from Edinburgh. 

Undisturbed Gems

Bealach na Ba

This road, with steep gradients and blind hairpin bends, resembles an Alpine pass. In just three miles, it rises to 2,053 feet above sea level.

Applecross Peninsula

Crossing over the Bealach, you descend into the Applecross Peninsula’s woodlands and untouched coastlines. Visit Applecross Walled Garden & the award-winning Potting Shed Cafe & Restaurant. Try fresh prawns and squat lobsters, fruits, and locally grown veggies.

Isle of Raasay

Sandwiched between Skye to the west and the Scottish mainland to the east, Raasay offers unique wildlife, Brochel Castle ruins, and a gin distillery.

Sleet Peninsula

Nestled on Skye’s southern end, Sleet caters to various needs, from boutique shopping and yacht mooring to museums and gardens.

Things to Do

Author Bio: Eva Badola is a UK-based Indian writer and freelance environment journalist. Her several articles and a book focus on nature, culture, and sustainability.